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A JAPANESE FARMER 



A TRIP 
AROUND THE WORLD 



BY 



NAHUM HARWOOD 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS 



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Leominster, Mass. 
1906 



LIBRARY of C0N6RESS 
Two Cooles Received 

JAN 26 1906 

. CoDyrierht Entry 
fcLASS CX. XXc. No 

A / 1 4 4 7 6" 

COPY B. 



V 



COPYRIGHT I906 BY NAHUM HARWOOD 
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 



PREFACE 

These papers were first printed in the " Leomin- 
ster Daily Enterprise." At the request of many 
who read them, I have endeavored to put them in 
more compact and attractive form. I have made 
no pretense of literary excellence, or of a deep 
insight into the history, religion, nature, or habits 
of the people of the countries through which I 
have traveled. It would take years of observa- 
tion and studv to attain to that, and volumes to 
record the results. I have endeavored to give 
only a very imperfect pen-and-ink sketch of what 
I saw, heard, and felt. 

If there are any who have the patience to 
follow me around the world, from Leominster to 
Leominster, and if I shall afford them but a 
small part of the benefit, instruction, and plea- 
sure that the trip has afforded me, then I shall 
have been amply repaid for the writing. 

Nahum Harwood. 



CONTEXTS 

I. England i 

II, France 13 

III. Italy 25 

IV, Egypt 47 

V. India 62 

VI. Ceylon and Singapore .... 87 

VII. China 103 

VIII. Japan . . . . . . . .120 

IX. The Pacific Ocean and Honolulu . .150 

X. The Home Stretch 160 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

A Japanese Farmer .... Frontispiece 

Gondola, Venice 26 

Small Canal, Venice 28 - 

Bridge of Sighs, Venice 32 

Dying Gladiator 42 

Sakkiyah (Water-wheel), Egypt . . . . 50 - 

The Great Pyramid and Sphinx . . . 54 

Arab Boy and Donkey 58 

Native Hut, Bombay 64 

Bullock Cart, Bombay 68 

Bullock Team, Bombay 72 

Burning Ghat, Benares 76 

Great Banyan Tree, Calcutta . . . . 80 

Abdul . 84 

Tree Ferns, Kandy, Ceylon . . . . 90 • 
Elephant and Keeper, Ceylon . . . .94. 

Botanical Gardens, Kandy, Ceylon . . . 98 

Sedan Chair, Hong Kong 108 

Arched Bridge, Japan 122 

Great Bell, Nara, Japan 130 

jlnrikishas and cherry blossoms, yokohama park 138 

One of the Parks, Kyoto 148 - 



/■ 



A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 






A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 
CHAPTER I 

ENGLAND 

As the four tugs fastened on to the huge steamer 
Ivernia like wasps, and, turning her, slowly steamed 
down Boston harbor, the last thing we could 
distinguish among our friends at the end of the 
wharf, as the dresses and waving handkerchiefs 
faded into one indistinct mass, was the red dress 
of Rena. Arrived at Queenstown, Sunday morn- 
ing at 2 a. m., we saw only the " lighter " taking 
off passengers, baggage, and mail. Arrived at the 
landing in Liverpool, Sunday, October 2 7, 1 901, we 
met Cook's man, who had our trunks inspected, 
secured a hack, and went with us to the Adelphi 
Hotel, where he met us again Monday morning, 
checked our trunks to London, gave us tickets 
to that city via Chester, Leamington, and Oxford, 
and in other ways proved of great assistance. 
Took a car on an elevated road Monday after- 
noon, and rode the whole length of the great 
Liverpool docks and back to the end of the road ; 
then took seats on top of an electric car and 
rode to the Adelphi Hotel, going through some 



2 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

of the principal streets of Liverpool. At the 
hotel I first saw a head porter in full uniform ; 
he wore a dress-suit trimmed with heavy gold 
lace and brass buttons, a red vest, and yellow 
tights. I was frightened, for I thought I beheld 
a real live duke, — the Duke of Adelphi (Hotel). 
I made a low bow, and then asked if that was the 
Duke of Adelphi. " No," replied my informant, 
" that is the head porter of the hotel, and you 
must give him two shillings when you leave." 

Left Liverpool at 4 p. m., October 28, and 
after an hour's ride arrived at Chester. Went 
to Westminster Hotel, an old-fashioned, quaint 
place, fire burning in the open fireplaces in many 
of the rooms, and everything neat and food good. 
Tuesday we walked around the " old wall " and 
went into the Chester Cathedral. It is a magnifi- 
cent and interesting structure, built in 968. Saw 
the King Charles Tower on the " old wall," where 
he stood and witnessed the defeat of his army. 
There is a piece of the " old wall " built by the 
Romans. Rode out to Eaton Hall, the country 
seat of the Duke of Westminster, covering five 
miles square. We rode for a distance of two and 
a half miles, and came to the residence and a 
magnificent set of buildings, including a chapel, 
stables, and agent's and private secretary's resi- 
dences. In the park were thousands of deer, 
pheasants, rabbits, and squirrels, all tame. We 



ENGLAND 



rode up to the costly gilded gates, where only 
royalty are admitted. We could not go over the 
residence, as the duke (a young man of twenty- 
three) was residing there at the time. Most of the 
fifteen thousand acres of this vast estate is leased 
to farmers, who live in small stone or brick houses 
on the land, making most of it productive, and 
leaving only a small part for animals, hunting, and 
lawns. 

On our return to Chester we saw the old house 
once occupied by Lord Derby ; also an old house 
which was the only one spared by the plague, and 
is called "God's Providence House," this name 
being across the front in large letters. Chester 
Cathedral contains some magnificent stained 
glass and the finest carved woodwork in England. 
Chester Castle is one of the sights, and is beauti- 
fully situated on the River Dee. 

We left for Leamington on the 3 p. m. train, and 
stopped at the Bath Hotel, which is old fashioned 
and quaint, like the Westminster at Chester. 
Have not seen a wooden building yet, all of them 
being constructed of brick or stone. All the 
farms are like gardens. 

On Wednesday, October 30, we rode two miles 
in the train to Warwick Castle, a magnificent 
and extensive building, surrounded by a moat, 
inclosing a square of 304 acres; there is a fine 
clock tower. The guard at the gate showed us 



4 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

around, inside and out. The gallery of paintings 
is beyond price, — some by Rubens, Rembrandt, 
Reynolds. There are two portraits of the present 
Countess of Warwick, a beautiful woman of about 
thirty-five ; portraits of the ancestors of the Earl 
of Warwick; of past kings, by great painters; one 
of Queen Elizabeth and the original bed used by 
her. There is also a cast from the face of Oliver 
Cromwell made after his death. The present earl 
and his family were occupying a part of the huge 
building, which contains some forty-five rooms. 
The guard opened the door, and we had a peep 
into one of the rooms used and could hear the 
family moving around. One room contained no- 
thing but ancient armor. The castle overlooks the 
river, and the views in all directions are charming. 
From Warwick we took a train for St ratio rd- 
on-Avon, arriving at 1 1 a. m. Here we inspected 
Shakespeare's birthplace, and saw the record of 
his birth and the first volume of his plays ever 
printed, the room where he was born, his father's 
room, where he dealt in wool, and his garden, 
where are now growing all the plants and flowers 
mentioned in his plays. Then we went to the 
church where he is buried, and saw the records of 
his marriage and death. It is the same old church 
that Shakespeare attended, but a far better and 
costlier one than Leominster can boast. We saw 
the White Horse Inn, where he had meals and 



ENGLAND 



drank ale. To be in the same room and garden 
where he played when a boy, to sit in the same 
church, and to gaze on the same scenery — the 
hills and valleys and the river Avon — is won- 
derfully impressive. The walls and ceilings in the 
room where the great writer was born are com- 
pletely covered with signatures, and the glass in 
the windows is scratched with diamonds, — Wal- 
ter Scott, Byron, Tennyson, Irving, and many 
others equally distinguished, from all parts of the 
world. A shilling apiece was charged, which in 
time must have amounted to thousands of dollars. 
This is not allowed now. Notices are posted that 
no tips be given. We told the voluble guides that 
we were anxious to give them dollars and dollars, 
but we could not break the rules. There seemed 
to be a pained and disappointed look upon their 
faces. 

A few miles from Leamington is the town of 
Leominster, which I greatly wanted to see, but 
time would not admit of our visiting that town 
with its familiar sounding name. 

Leaving Leamington at 5.30 p.m., Wednes- 
day, October 30, we arrived at Oxford about 6 
o'clock. The ticket we purchased in Liverpool 
seems a regular pass to everywhere, as it has 
already taken us to Chester, Leamington, Strat- 
ford-on-Avon, and Oxford, all off the regular line, 
and will yet carry us to London. At Oxford we 



6 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

put up at the Mitre Hotel, which is old-fashioned, 
irregular, cosy, comfortable, and neat, the same 
as all the hotels we have stopped at so far. It 
was built in the year 1400, and has large beams 
across the ceilings. During our stay in this town 
we visited nearly all the colleges and many other 
points of interest. We went over New College, 
built in the fourteenth century; Trinity College 
and the Lime Walk; Magdalen College and the 
Addison Walk; Christ Cathedral, founded in 730; 
the large dining-hall in Christ Church, containing 
portraits of some of the celebrated men who have 
been students of this college, including Henry 
VIII, Cardinal Wolsey, and hundreds of others, 
— life-size. At Keble College we saw Hunt's fa- 
mous painting, " The Light of the World," which 
represents a figure of Christ holding a lantern. 
At Exeter College we saw the Gobelin tapestry, 
8x12 feet, with a life-size picture of Mary and 
the Christ-child ; it is of priceless value. 

Friday, November 1, we took the train leaving 
Oxford at 1040 a. m., and at the station saw the 
Duchess of Marlboro (Consuelo Vanderbilt), who 
rode in the next compartment to us. She was 
very tall and slender, about twenty-three years 
old, and had a good, clear complexion and a sort 
of " don't care " expression. The guard said that 
she would sit down on a barrel or anywhere. She 
wore a Rembrandt hat, carried herself gracefully, 



ENGLAND 



and, being so tall, rather queenly. We arrived in 
the great city of London at 12.30 o'clock, and 
were driven a distance of two miles to the Cran- 
ston Waverly Hotel, Southampton Row. On the 
following day we rode in a bus to old London 
Bridge, walked across and back, and then went 
all over the famous Tower of London, which was 
built by William the Conqueror ; saw the crown 
jewels, including all the crowns, solid gold staves, 
etc. In order to reach the Tower we had to cross 
the old moat, 100 feet wide, which was once filled 
with water. There were soldiers, guards, and 
warders everywhere, dressed in uniforms accord- 
ing to the styles worn ten centuries ago. We 
first came to the Bloody Tower, where the two 
young princes were murdered by Richard III, 
and the stairway under which they were buried ; 
the torture-room came next, well filled with vari- 
ous instruments for inflicting pain, — the block 
and axe used to behead Lady Jane Grey, Queen 
Anne Boleyn, Cromwell (not Oliver), and many 
hundreds of others who met their death in this 
way. The Tower was erected in 1079, an d its walls 
are from 10 to 15 feet thick. It covers many acres, 
and consists of long blocks of stone buildings, 
connected at the corners by towers, each having 
many portholes to shoot from. It has been used 
as a palace and a prison, and Queen Elizabeth 
was confined there once for a short time. 



8 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

We went to the Bank of England, commonly 
called " The Old Lady of Threadneedle Street," 
a long, low stone building, and the money centre 
of the world ; then to St. Paul's Cathedral in the 
heart of the city, — beautiful and magnificent, 
especially the dome, — in which are many statues 
in memory of some of the soldiers, sailors, and 
statesmen of Great Britain, — Nelson, Welling- 
ton, Gordon, etc. The architectural work was 
done by Christopher Wren in 1675, and it ranks 
next to St. Peter's at Rome. 

Sunday, November 3, we passed at Hyde Park 
and the Kensington Gardens, the former contain- 
ing 388 acres in the heart of London. We walked 
down the famous drive, Rotten Row. Inside the 
park and near the entrance were many speak- 
ers haranguing the different crowds on religion, 
temperance, politics, and other subjects. The 
fog was very thick that day, and, mixed with 
the smoke, made it at times impossible to distin- 
guish objects more than fifty feet away. It gets 
into the houses, makes the eyes smart like smoke, 
fills the lungs and nose, interferes with business, 
and is very disagreeable. The papers say that that 
evening the people went about with lanterns. No 
money, office, or kingly station would induce me 
to live here if this state of fog were prevalent. 

November 4. We walked to the British Mu- 
seum, and passed three hours in looking over this 



ENGLAND 



immense affair. It would take a volume to enu- 
merate the world-famous treasures of priceless 
value which it contains. Out of the thousands I 
will mention but two : In the Etruscan room was 
the mummy of a young woman. The body was 
wrapped in cloth bandages, and strips of cloth 
were fastened with gold-headed nails ; the feet 
were encased in gold shoes ; — all this like an or- 
dinary mummy, but on the face was a portrait, 
finely colored and life-like, painted in encaustic on 
panel, of a beautiful young lady, with fine features, 
beautiful nose, and full red lips, dark, round, 
pretty eyes, dark, arched eyebrows, and hair 
worn pompadour style. If the young women of 
three or four thousand years ago were anything 
like her, they must have been strikingly beautiful, 
and equal to anything of to-day in intelligence 
or beauty. Also in this room were portraits and 
medallions, engraved or cut on precious stones, 
— one of Emperor Augustus, with eyes cut out of 
sardonyx, a beautiful thing, 5x3 inches, with a 
band of precious stones around the head, and the 
finest face of a man I ever saw. The stones were 
so cut that the coloring in them gave the proper 
coloring to the face. 

Leaving the museum, we enjoyed a cab ride 
for the next two hours, passing during that time 
Somerset House, Houses of Parliament, Marl- 
borough House, where the king is now living, 



io A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

and Buckingham Palace, which is being fitted up 
for the future residence of the king. We also 
passed St. James's Palace and Park, and went to 
Westminster Abbey, immense and grand, filled 
with the monuments of past royalty, including 
Alfred the Great, historians, philosophers, actors. 
The only bust of an American I saw was that of 
Longfellow. There were marble statues of Dick- 
ens, Tennyson, Garrick, Gladstone and wife, and 
thousands of others. In going around through 
the different inclosures and chapels, filled with 
costly sculptures and figures, — life-size, — in- 
tended to show the features of the ones long ago 
buried here, all silent and intimating only death, 
one is filled with sadness and longs to go out into 
the open day and sunlight; but, alas! it is not 
possible in such a suicidal fog and smoke as 
London is having to-day. 

Tuesday we saw the " Old Bailey " court-house, 
where so many celebrated criminals have been 
tried in olden times. It is still used, and in 
connection with it is Newgate prison, where at 
present there is but one prisoner, and he will be 
hanged in two weeks. We passed through St. 
John's Gate, an archway over a street, and a part 
of the original wall of the city. 

Wednesday, November 6. We hunted around 
and found the original of Dickens's " Old Curios- 
ity Shop," which we entered and there bought 



ENGLAND n 



some souvenirs. The neighborhood is rich in old 
houses, law offices, and streets connected with the 
famous English writer and mentioned in his 
novels. The original " Bleak House " is some 
distance away, overlooking the Thames. Dickens, 
when a boy, was employed not far from this spot, 
making bootblacking, and his father was the ori- 
ginal " Micawber," always in debt and often in 
jail, but always hopeful and looking forward to 
better times, which never came. A Mr. Poole 
now carries on a waste-paper business in this old 
shop, and incidentally sells souvenirs and trinkets, 
from whom I purchased a picture of the place. 
His daughter, who lives with him, might well be 
" Little Nell " back to life. From here we went 
down to have a closer view of the Parliament 
Houses, which are very extensive, with many 
fine towers, but the buildings as a whole are 
not equal to the Capitol at Washington, lack- 
ing its grandeur and noble proportions, and its 
grand dome. We passed by Trafalgar Square, 
where is the finest of the many monuments 
erected to the memory of Admiral Nelson, along 
the Thames embankment, bordered on one side 
by many fine residences, hotels, and club-houses, 
and along Regent Street, which is one of the 
most popular shopping-places. 

Friday, after taking lunch with some friends, 
we walked about the city, seeing Guildhall, the 



12 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

residence of the lord mayor, and a small church 
designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and called a 
finer piece of architecture than St. Paul's, which 
he wanted built on the same plans as this one, 
but there was not money enough to do it. 



CHAPTER II 
FRANCE 

Saturday, November 9. We left in the forenoon 
at 10 o'clock for Paris, arriving at 7 p. m. I was 
slightly ill during the next few days, and was 
visited Tuesday by a French doctor, who could 
speak a little English, and who left some medi- 
cine for me to take. He came again Wednes- 
day, and when I paid him for his two visits, his 
bill, which was eight dollars, started my pulse 
and the coating from my tongue, and gave my 
system a much-needed shock. 

Friday I took a cab and visited the following 
places : The Bourse (the stock exchange), the 
financial centre of France ; the Grand Opera 
House ; the Louvre Picture Gallery ; what is left 
of the Bastile, the old French prison, which was 
demolished by the revolutionists; the Palais 
Royal ; the equestrian statue of Joan of Arc, in 
one of the principal squares ; the Tuileries ; the 
Place Vendome, with its high column; the The- 
atre Francais ; and Napoleon's tomb, if tomb it 
can be called, the most magnificent and royal 
sepulchre that money could build. A large 
courtyard with buildings on each side, contain- 



i 4 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

ing historical paintings and statues, leads to the 
principal building, into which we entered with 
uncovered heads. On each side of the lofty hall 
are the torn and battle-scarred flags of Napo- 
leon's wars, covering the walls high up. Back 
of this a golden light from the stained glass 
dome above lights up the spot beneath which the 
bones of France's adored hero lie. We do not 
look directly at the tomb itself, only upon a flood 
of golden light that seems ever to play around 
and above the hallowed spot ; it is the perfection 
of art. From here we go to the Arc de Triomphe 
in the Champs filysees, by the river Seine. This 
is a glorious monument of military achievements, 
a magnificent structure in every sense of the 
word, covered with beautiful designs in bronze. 
Then we visited the Eiffel Tower, a stupendous 
structure, finely situated, which does not look 
more than twice as high as the Washington mon- 
ument. Across the Seine there are several fine 
bridges; one finished in 1900 is a fine piece of 
work, being ornamented at each end with magni- 
ficent bronze figures. The broad boulevards 
on each side of the Seine are like parks, and far 
better than the lonely parks of London. They 
are seven hundred feet wide, or over, and are full 
of life and moving humanity, and fine equipages. 
Sunday, November 17. Went to the Louvre 
Gallery, where room after room, halls, and gal- 



FRANCE 15 

leries are filled with priceless paintings. We 
spent three hours there, with a guide named 
Louis Pons, a Frenchman, who spoke English 
and several other languages, and was a very in- 
telligent and interesting man. This gallery is one 
of the world's greatest treasure-houses of ancient 
art. There are paintings by Raphael, Titian, Rem- 
brandt, Rubens, Correggio, Velasquez, etc. ; also 
the original Venus de Milo, the model of all art- 
ists for female beauty, part of the arms of which 
are gone; and though since it was dug up on the 
island of Milo, Greece, the best sculptors have 
tried to replace them, they cannot do it, and have 
them compare at all with the rest of the statue. 
Here also is the original Gladiator, found in 
Greece, which is the ideal of manly strength and 
beauty, — full of nerve and muscle, and having 
a graceful poise. There was part of a fresco by 
Michael Angelo, removed from Rome. I saw the 
wonderful Regent diamond, belonging to the 
French nation and valued at two million dollars ; 
went into the room where Napoleon married 
Maria Louisa, saw Marie Antoinette's bed, and 
a number of rooms furnished with the furniture 
of different epochs, — Francis I, and Louis XIV, 
XV, and XVI. 

Paris is a beautiful city, full of life, sunshine, 
paintings, statues, art, grand boulevards, and ap- 
parently a very happy people. In one of the 



16 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

principal squares was a large bronze statue of 
George Washington. I walked up one thorough- 
fare, part way, which is one of the finest shop- 
ping avenues in the city, and includes the Boule- 
vards de la Madeleine, des Capucines, des Italiens, 
Montmartre, Poissonniere, Bonne-Nouvelle, St. 
Denis, and St. Martin, — all these being one 
street with different names. I walked for over 
an hour up one side and back on the other. The 
sidewalks are 30 to 33 feet wide, with rows of 
large trees on the outside of each, which in the 
summer must completely shade the walks. In 
many places one half the sidewalk is taken up 
with small tables and chairs, used in eating and 
drinking. We did not go far enough to see the 
end of the street, but as far as we did go, from 
the Place de l'Opera, it was lined with large retail 
stores of jewelry, furs, silks, glass, etc. ; the finest 
street for stores I ever saw. Broadway, New 
York, does not compare with it, or any street in 
London. It has extremely wide sidewalks, lined 
with a continuous row of large, flourishing trees. 
The fine show of goods in the windows, its bril- 
liant appearance under electric and gas light, 
distinguish this boulevard from any other I have 
ever seen. 

Tuesday, the 19th. Went to Notre Dame 
Cathedral, the Notre Dame of the world, with its 
two square towers, fine stained glass windows, its 



FRANCE 17 

fluted columns, and massive arches of stone. The 
dining-room at Pension Glatz, where we take our 
meals, was once a part of the residence of Victor 
Hugo. 

Wednesday, November 20. We concluded our 
visit in Paris and left on the 9.30 a. m. train for 
Marseilles, which we reached after a ride of thir- 
teen hours through the wine and sugar district 
where the champagne is made. The ride was full 
of interest to us, — the quaint old villages, the 
houses all of stone, with roofs of brick, or tiled, 
or covered with flat stones. In the compartment 
with us on the train there were only an old lady 
and her German maid, and by means of a tag 
on a package we found, after they had left the 
train, that the old lady was the Countess Po- 
lignon. She could speak some English, and was 
very pleasant, giving us the London " Graphic " 
to read, while I returned the favor with the 
Paris edition of the New York " Herald." In the 
next compartment was an American lady, Mrs. 
Washburn (and her French maid), with whom 
I accidentally scraped an acquaintance. I was en- 
deavoring to make a fruit vender understand that 
I wanted some grapes, and she translated my 
speech into French and I obtained the fruit. She 
also helped us to procure coffee in the same 
way, and advised us not to stop at Lyons, but to 
continue through to Marseilles, where she re- 



18 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

commended a hotel that was near the station. 
Following her to the hotel, we found it quite 
crowded and impossible for us to get rooms ; but 
Mrs. Washburn had telegraphed ahead for two 
rooms, for herself and maid, and she volunteered 
to give one of them up to us. H. and I thought 
she was very kind. 

We left Marseilles Thursday morning at 10 
o'clock for Nice, and as it happened we had 
the same compartment in the car on the train 
with Mrs. Washburn. She is about forty-five 
years old, and is a niece of the late Hon. Edward 
Avery of Boston. Her home is in New York, 
and she has spent fourteen winters in the Riviera, 
crossing the Atlantic twenty-seven times. When 
in New York she lives on Fifth Avenue. She 
has given us some very good advice about Italy, 
as to our purchases, where to stop, and what to 
see, and her advice as to this hotel at Nice, the 
Beau Rivage, turned out to be good. 

The best part of our journey seems to have 
just commenced. We reached Nice after a ride 
of four and one half hours, and such a ride, — 
mountains to the west, glimpses of the Mediter- 
ranean to the east, while at our feet on each side 
were vineyards and groves of oranges, figs, olives, 
etc., villages and chateaux. It was a wonderful 
two hundred miles of lovely scenery. 

We arrived at Nice at 2.20 p. m., and went 



FRANCE 19 

to the Hotel Beau Rivage, on the Quai du Midi. 
It is the best one we have stopped at yet ; clean, 
good cooking; rates $2.30 per day; magnificent 
location ; room 18 x 20 feet, 18 feet high, two beds, 
thick, nice carpet; elevator, electric lights, and 
first-class in every way. After lunch we took a 
look. The Quai du Midi is a promenade, three 
miles long, one hundred feet wide, and on the 
edge of the sea. The sidewalk on the grand 
promenade is fifty feet wide and made of cement 
stone. In all directions, a delightful view is ob- 
tained of city, mountains, and sea. It seems to 
H. and me like a bit of paradise after being lost 
in London fog, cooped up in a pension in Paris, 
and jostled in the hubbub of great cities with the 
danger of crossing the streets, — it is so quiet, 
so calm, in the interesting city, with the gentle 
sea at our feet. 

Saturday, November 23, we rode to Mentone, 
going by way of the hills and mountains, and com- 
ing back by the sea. There were five in the party 
— two Germans, two Americans, and one Eng- 
lishman — and a French driver. I never expect 
to see anything again that will equal this drive. 
Going, we rose to an elevation of fifteen hundred 
feet above the sea, and such magnificent views ! 
Glimpses of blue sea on the right, on the left the 
snow-clad Alps, under our feet the picturesque 
cottages and vineyards of the peasants. The road 



2o A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

is finely built, as smooth and hard as marble, 
and no state road in our own country compares 
with it. On the downhill side the walls are of cut 
stone laid in cement. We rode around preci- 
pices of rock rising vertically over our heads a 
thousand feet or more. We arrived at Mentone 
at 12.30, after a ride of three and one-half hours, 
and after lunch we strolled around among the 
quaint old places in the town, and walked the en- 
tire length of the stone wall inclosing and form- 
ing the harbor. 

Mentone is beautifully situated near the gentle 
blue sea, and is sheltered from north and west 
winds by high hills and mountains directly back 
of the town. We started on our return trip at 
about 2.30 o'clock, taking the road that follows 
the windings of the sea and not far above it, — the 
same magnificently built road, passing through 
tunnels in the rock like a railroad. We passed 
through Monte Carlo, and reached Nice at 5.30 
o'clock. The distance was twenty-three miles 
going and seventeen miles returning, and such a 
forty miles of scenery! There is no match for it 
on this earth. The cost of the trip was two dol- 
lars each. The Riviera is a strip bordering on the 
Mediterranean Sea, two hundred miles long, and 
is the great winter resort of Europe. The best 
part of this — the very cream — is the twenty 
miles from Nice to Monte Carlo and Mentone. 



FRANCE 21 

The road rises to an elevation of fifteen hundred 
feet, and was built by Napoleon. 

November 25. Left Hotel Beau Rivage, Nice, 
at 10 a. m. for Monte Carlo. Bill for four days, 
including wine and water and conveyance to and 
from depot, $10.25 each. Arrived at Monte Carlo 
at 1 1 a. m., and went to the Windsor Hotel, which 
was recommended to us by Mrs. Washburn, and 
found it, if anything, much better than she said. 
We have a large room on the second floor, with 
frescoed ceiling, two clothes-presses, two large 
mirrors, easy chair, lounge, marble mantel and 
fireplace, large French clock, thick carpet, and 
two windows that open out on the veranda, from 
which we can look out over a garden of oranges, 
palms, and flowers, to the sea. We are well up, 
overlooking the lower village and casino, while 
the street runs up towards a high mountain of 
rock. The place is one of beautiful hotels, with 
lawns and gardens filled with palms and tropical 
trees. The streets are as clean as a marble floor, 
and it seems the ideal place to live in during the 
winter. We took a look at the Casino, which is 
a beautiful building overlooking the sea, which is 
of the most varied colors from dark blue to pea 
green. We had the best meal at lunch since leav- 
ing home. After dinner we sat in the parlor, and 
Mrs. Washburn introduced us to a countess who 
was of the court of Eugenie, a fine old lady, with 



22 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

a beautiful face, who could talk English. Her 
name was Comtesse M. de Seilern. 

Tuesday the 26th, at 1 1 a. m., Mrs. Washburn 
escorted us to the far-famed gambling-place, the 
Casino of Monte Carlo. She showed us how to 
get tickets of admission good for the day and 
evening. There were some three or four tables 
going, and twenty-five or more persons at each 
table ; a little later there will be a great crowd. 

Upon entering the Casino gambling-rooms we 
had to show our tickets and give our names to 
the doorkeepers. They could not seem to under- 
stand H.'s name, as their French tongues could 
not get around it, and there was quite a delay. 
Finally, pointing to H., I said " Count Mulli- 
kano," when, with a polite bow, the doorkeeper 
ushered us in. 

At the tables we saw a dapper little man, 
dressed as though he had just come out of the 
bandbox, with spotless white kids on, gambling 
and losing thousands of dollars with seeming in- 
difference. He seemed to be superstitious, for he 
would change his place at the tables and then 
change tables, but to no advantage, for while we 
were there he was a continual loser, losing prob- 
ably $10,000. I think he took H. for his "hoodoo," 
for when he saw him near he would change tables 
and even go into another room. 

I saw old and young men, beautiful girls and 



FRANCE 23 

old ladies, winning and losing tens and hundreds 
of dollars, apparently unconcerned. One old man 
lost $200 in a few minutes, then hesitated, put 
on $30 more, lost, got up, and left the place. The 
rooms are like a palace, and there is nothing 
equal to them at Waldorf-Astoria. Many ladies 
and gentlemen with plenty of money gamble a 
few dollars each day to pass away the time and 
break the monotony, while many others have a 
passion for it and gamble steadily and recklessly. 
Everything is kept in the best of order, and any 
disorderly man or woman, or any person of bad 
character, is sent out of town. There are no taxes 
to be paid, as all expenses are borne by the Casino 
company, and if one must gamble, it is a safer 
place than Wall Street, as the house gets but 
two per cent of the stakes. We were perfectly 
delighted with the whole place, — the hotel, the 
people, the buildings, the sea, the mountains, the 
sunshine, the air, the oranges, palms, figs, flowers. 
This must be the culmination of our trip. 

The afternoon of Tuesday we went through 
the palace of the Prince of Monaco, at Monaco. 
He is at the head of the company that owns and 
rules the city of Monte Carlo. The palace of 
Monaco is on a rocky hill about two miles from 
the Casino, and was once a fortified place. Some 
old cannon are still mounted on battlements of 
the Middle Ages, pointing seaward, perfectly use- 



24 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

less, — ■ only ornamental. The rocky promontory 
juts out into the sea, and we get a fine view from 
it of Monte Carlo, the mountains in the rear, 
and the water of wonderful blue and green. 
The interior of the old palace is a marvel of 
furniture and pictures, and one room has more 
gold leaf in it than there is on the dome of the 
State House in Boston. 



CHAPTER III 

ITALY 

November 27, 1901. We left Monte Carlo on 
10.50 a. m. train for Genoa, Italy, where we ar- 
rived at 7 p.m., and went to the Hotel des Londres. 
Genoa is the second commercial city on the Medi- 
terranean, Marseilles being the first. 

Thursday, the 28th, Thanksgiving Day in the 
United States. With a guide we went over a 
very old church, very finely decorated with heavy 
gilding ; then to the palace formerly belonging 
to one of the old ducal families, where Napoleon 
lived after the battle of Marengo. Also here lived 
at one time the great artists Rembrandt and 
Rubens, while painting portraits of the members 
of the family. Many of these portraits we saw, 
as well as paintings by Titian and other great 
artists. After lunch we rode out to the world- 
famous cemetery, the Campo Santo, full of mar- 
ble statues and groups of life-size figures, some 
of which are very beautiful. There are several 
covered colonnades one thousand feet in length, 
one side filled with these marble statues, marking 
the burial-place of those who passed away possi- 
bly centuries ago. From here we rode back to 



26 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

the city and to the place where Columbus was 
born, and stood in front of the very house in 
which he first saw the light of day; a high, 
narrow building not over sixteen feet wide, and 
in a street so narrow no teams are allowed in 
it; the buildings are so high that hardly any 
light reaches the street, which is built up solid 
from one end to the other. In this little old 
house he was born, and in this narrow street, 
that would be a disgrace to the North End of 
Boston, he played when a boy. 

Genoa is the second seaport on the Mediterra- 
nean, and here Columbus imbibed his first ideas 
of the sea, and that the world was really larger 
than what was known or believed at that time. 
He tried to interest the moneyed men of Genoa to 
build him ships, but they took no stock in his 
ideas or in him, whom they had known as a poor 
boy living in one of the poorest streets. So he 
went to Venice and tried to interest the great 
capitalists of that city, then the mistress of the 
seas and the commercial metropolis of the then 
known world. While in Venice he studied a large 
map of the world made by a monk. (This map 
is now in the Doge's palace, and when in Venice 
I intend to see it.) Then he went to Spain, and 
there King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella ad- 
vanced the money, Isabella selling her jewels, 
and Columbus sailed out over an unknown sea 



ITALY 27 

in quest of an unknown land, with sublime cour- 
age, to prove his faith in a western continent. If 
Columbus had not had the courage of his con- 
victions, what a difference it would have made to 
the United States and its people, and in fact to 
the whole world ! 

Friday, November 29. We left Genoa by train 
at 3 a. if. for Venice, by way of Milan and Verona, 
— Shakespeare's " Two Gentlemen of Verona." 
Between Genoa and Milan is a range of mount- 
ains crossed by means of many tunnels, one of 
which is about four miles long. After leaving 
the hilly region we came out into a level coun- 
try where every bit of land was cultivated. The 
hills and mountains are terraced as far up as it is 
possible to obtain a foothold, and in some of the 
most barren places soil is brought and placed on 
the terraces and vineyards, and groves of olives 
are seen growing in places that originally were 
nothing but barren rock and sand. 

From Milan to Venice we passed through a 
fine farming country, level and fertile; on the 
train we had a first class compartment all to 
ourselves. Around Verona there seemed to be 
a lot of old fortifications. 

We arrived at Venice at 7 p. m., after dark, and 
alighting from the train we, as usual, followed 
the crowd, showed our tickets, and passed out by 
a long row of what we should call hackmen in 



28 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

America. They had the names of the different 
hotels they represented on their hats, but they 
were all boatmen — gondoliers. We walked down 
a long flight of stone steps, following the boat- 
man that represented the hotel we were going 
to, the Aurora, and there at the foot of the steps 
was a long row of gondolas. We stepped into 
one and silently moved away. We were under a 
little cover like a chaise-top, just room enough 
for two. No one else was on the boat except the 
gondolier at the stern end, out of sight of us, and 
we started on the most forlorn, gloomy ride I ever 
had. It was cold, damp, cheerless, and dark, as 
for nearly an hour we glided along the Grand 
Canal, then into a narrow, crooked canal, with 
no sounds except the warnings of the boatmen 
as they came to turns in the canal; dark except 
for an occasional glimmer of light from some 
grated window in a stone house. Lonesome stone 
steps led into the dark water, the depth of which 
we did not know. I asked H. if he had on his 
rubber boots, as it seemed so damp under foot. 
The smells that came out of this dark, stagnant 
water were anything but agreeable, and our first 
impressions of Venice were not pleasant or en- 
couraging. At last we came out into the large 
lagoon; we should call it a lake. By this lagoon 
many of the principal buildings are situated, and 
it is a harbor for the shipping and war-ships. We 




SMALL CAXAL, VENICE 



ITALY 29 

came to the landing in front of our hotel, and 
the next morning the sun shone brilliantly into 
our room as we looked out onto the broad prome- 
nade in front that faces the lagoon, with its mov- 
ing crowd of people, and the lagoon filled with 
shipping and gondolas with gay colored sails, 
and we changed our opinion of Venice formed 
the night before. After breakfast we engaged 
a guide and walked around St. Mark's Square 
under the long, broad colonnades lined with 
stores, then by St. Mark's tower, the Campa- 
nile, 323 feet in height, surmounted by a colossal 
bronze angel, to St. Mark's Cathedral, built in the 
ninth century to receive the bones of St. Mark, 
which are believed to rest here. It is of Byzantine 
style of architecture. Here are fine mosaics. The 
vestibule is entered by means of bronze doors 
of magnificent workmanship, and the ceiling of 
mosaic, by Titian, Tintoretto, and others, is said 
to be the finest in the world. On the exterior are 
some five hundred columns of marble, said to have 
been brought by the Crusaders from Palestine. 
Near the church is the famous clock tower, with 
its gorgeous dial plate of blue and gold and the 
bronze figures whose iron hammers have marked 
the hours for ages. 

After leaving the church we passed directly 
into an establishment for making lace, some 
three hundred girls being at work making the 



3 o A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

finest lace. Some were using a microscope. This 
is one of many establishments under one organ- 
ization to give employment to poor girls, the 
Queen of Italy being the president. 

The Doge's Palace. We went all over this 
wonderful old palace. Its construction was com- 
menced in 809. The first room we entered, the 
senate chamber, is a magnificent hall, covered 
with paintings and frescoes by celebrated mas- 
ters. Here can still be seen the original seats 
once occupied by the senators. The most impor- 
tant acts of the Republic depended on the Senate. 
This room was completed in 1301. We next 
entered the Hall of the Council of Ten ; this 
council was really composed of seventeen, as the 
doge and his six councilors also were members. 
This council judged traitors, false coiners, etc., 
and in the walls of this room are secret openings 
used to convey information to the Council of Ten. 
Also on the wall are two of the so-called " Lions' 
Mouths," or little boxes for the reception of pa- 
pers denouncing law-breakers, traitors, etc. From 
this room we entered that of the Grand Coun- 
cil, the largest and most magnificent of all. 
Around the ceiling are the portraits of seventy- 
six doges. The portrait of one doge, Marino 
Faliero, was taken away, and in place of it was 
an inscription stating that he was beheaded for 
his crimes in 1355. In one of the rooms is a 



ITALY 31 

large map of the world, made in 1457 by a monk, 
showing the world as they then understood it. 
Asia and Africa are joined together in a curious 
way. Columbus studied this map before his dis- 
covery of America. 

The walls of the Grand Council room are cov- 
ered with the masterpieces of such painters as 
Titian and Tintoretto. Underneath all this mag- 
nificence are dungeons filled with . .cells lighted 
only by an opening in the door six inches in di- 
ameter, with stone floors, walls, and ceilings, no 
beds, nothing but a hard table — many below the 
level of the water in the canals. In one of these 
cells the Doge Marino Faliero was confined pre- 
vious to his execution. They are horrible, dismal 
places. We passed over the Bridge of Sighs, 
connecting the magnificent and luxurious Doge's 
Palace with the prison. The prisoners after being 
sentenced in the palace, perhaps by the secret 
Council of Ten, were taken across this bridge to 
the prison, to imprisonment or execution, or to 
horrible torture. We can say with Byron : — 

" We stood in Venice on the bridge of sighs, 
A palace and a prison on each hand : 
We saw from out the wave her structure rise 
As by the stroke of the enchanter's wand." 

The great square of St. Mark's, with the column 
of St. Mark near the centre and the Winged 
Lions of Venice guarding the entrance, sur- 



32 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

rounded by great buildings, broad colonnades, 
where are the principal retail stores, the Doge's 
Palace, and the Cathedral on one side, opening 
out into the great blue lagoon covered with boats 
with gay colored sails, gondolas, steamers, and 
war vessels of Italy, is a wonderful sight seen no- 
where else in the world. 

In Venice are no horses, oxen, mules, or dogs, 
no carriages, wagons, or trucks, no street cars, 
no omnibuses, bicycles, or automobiles. The only 
means of locomotion are boats that glide about 
everywhere noiselessly; it is a capital place to 
sleep. 

Around the grand square of St. Mark's and 
along the Promenade, perhaps a mile long, and 
one hundred and fifty feet wide, is solid ground, 
well paved, and there are also narrow ways in 
other directions where one can walk. Venice is 
built on piles on one hundred islands, and the 
canals are cut in all directions and are crossed 
by means of three hundred and sixty-seven 
bridges. 

Monday, December 2, 1901. We left Venice 
on the 9.50 morning train for Florence, where we 
arrived at 7 p. m., after dark. 

In our compartment on the train was an Italian 
lady who could speak a little English, and H. and 
I have learned to make acquaintance with any 
one who can do that. She helped us out with the 




BRIDGE OF SIGHS, VENICE 



ITALY 33 

train hands and with information we wanted. She 
was a native of Florence, so we procured from her 
the name of a good hotel, which she wrote for us 
on a slip of paper. We engaged a carriage and, 
giving the address to the driver, started out on 
a seemingly endless drive, and began to have 
misgivings as to the kind of a house we were 
going to ; but at last we brought up in front of a 
good-looking house in a good part of the city. 

The lady of the house and her son came out 
and met us on the sidewalk, and they seemed sur- 
prised to see us. They could speak but a very few 
words of English, and I soon found it was not a 
public hotel but a " pension " (a sort of private 
boarding-house). I held up one finger and pointed 
to the upper story of the house, which meant we 
wanted one room. Then I held up two ringers, 
which meant I wanted two beds in that room. 
They desired to know who sent us, and when I 
showed them the paper, they recognized the 
handwriting and we were at once taken in. It 
proved to be one of the very best and cheapest 
places we had so far stopped at. There were the 
proprietor, his wife and son, two elderly ladies, 
and a young man, all Italians. One of the elderly 
ladies was a member of one of the noble but im- 
poverished families of Italy. Then there was a 
young lady who proved the next day to be an 
American girl from Iowa, studying vocal music. 



34 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

The first night at dinner, all except H. and I 
spoke in Italian ; we sat in silence, the proceed- 
ings did not interest us. The next morning, at 
breakfast, the Iowa girl spoke to us, and the rest 
of the time we remained in Florence she made it 
very agreeable for us. Through her acting as in- 
terpreter, we all of us became quite loquacious, 
even hilarious. Our bill at this " pension " for two 
days' board, including room, fires, lights, and wine, 
was three dollars each. Each morning our break- 
fast was served in our room (sometimes before we 
were ready to receive it) by a chamber maid, who 
H. says is the pleasantest one we have struck 
yet, which is saying a great deal in a country 
where all the servants are so polite and atten- 
tive. If we pass them in the hotel they will always 
stand and bow till we have passed by, and every 
one on the street takes off his hat to acquaint- 
ances. I even saw a motorman take his hand 
from the lever of his car and lift his hat to some 
one. If you speak to any official at a hotel or 
station, or to any one on the street, it is consid- 
ered impolite if you do not raise your hat. 

At Florence, with a guide, we went over the 
celebrated Uffizi Gallery, one of the great treasure- 
houses of the world for paintings and wonderful 
creations in marble. Here are paintings by 
Raphael, Titian, Rembrandt, Rubens, and Michael 
Angelo ; here is the original Wild Boar in mar- 



ITALY 35 

ble, brought from Greece ; the Venus de Medici, 
rival to the Venus de Milo that we saw in Paris. 
Here is the David of Michael Angelo, in marble, 
of heroic size, and the masterpiece of sculpture ; 
the fine form, the poise, and the fine expression 
of the face representing the David of the Bible 
as conceived by one of the greatest artists that 
the world has produced. It is said that Michael 
Angelo was but twenty-one when he executed 
this work. 

One hall contains portraits of over one hun- 
dred and fifty celebrated painters, painted by 
themselves. Among these are portraits of Ra- 
phael, Rembrandt, Rubens, and Titian. 

At Santa Croce Church we saw the place where 
Michael Angelo and Dante are buried, marked 
by fine monuments of marble. There is also a 
monument to Galileo, but he was not buried 
here. All three were born in Florence. We saw 
the house in which Dante was born, and we were 
shown the celebrated bronze group made by Ben- 
venuto Cellini. In one of the squares of the city 
is a bronze plate marking the place where the 
monk Savonarola was hanged and the body 
burned, for writing and preaching against the 
Pope. The Pitti Palace, also rich in priceless 
works of art, is in Florence. 

We left Florence at 7 in the morning for Rome, 
which we reached at 1.20 p. m., going to the Pen- 



36 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

sion Michel, which is a fine, large, new hotel. It 
has an elevator, and fine dining-rooms and par- 
lors. Our room was 18 x 24 feet, and 23 feet high, 
with fine beds, windows to the south, everything 
very neat, and good service, all for two dollars 
per day each — lights, soap, and heat extra. In 
the afternoon we walked over to the Coliseum, a 
vast ruin. It was begun in the year 72, and took 
the labor of thirty thousand slaves for eight years. 
This would build a railroad from Boston to San 
Francisco ; and this great amphitheatre was built 
only for the amusement of the emperors and great 
people of Rome ; it would seat eighty thousand 
people. The Leominster Town Hall will seat 
twelve hundred. The seats rose up tier on tier, 
and were in circular form, surrounding an arena 
on which the gladiators fought to the death. On 
this arena many of the early Christians were led 
to be torn in pieces by wild beasts, and many 
cruel scenes were here enacted for the amuse- 
ment of the Roman people. The dismal stone 
cells are to be seen from which the martyrs were 
led, through narrow passageways, to the arena, 
there to be torn and devoured by wild beasts for 
the diversion of cruel rulers like Nero. On the 
way to St. Peter's Cathedral we went into the 
Pantheon, noted for its beautiful facade and its 
noble dome, the full size of the building. Raphael 
is buried here. 



ITALY 37 

St. Peter's is the most magnificent and largest 
church or cathedral in the world. As I ap- 
proached it, it did not impress me as much as I 
had supposed it would. But once inside and tak- 
ing time to appreciate its vast dimensions, one 
realizes slowly what sort of a place he is in. First, 
it is the best-lighted cathedral we have seen, all 
others being rather dark and gloomy ; this is the 
exact reverse. Its dimensions are about 750 feet 
by 400 feet, including the facade. The dome 
rises to a height above the pavement of 435 feet, 
and is 196 feet in diameter. According to tradi- 
tion, St. Peter suffered martyrdom on the site of 
the cathedral, and his remains rest under the high 
altar. This great building covers a space very 
nearly as large as the square bounded by Main, 
West, and School streets and Merriam Avenue in 
Leominster. The interior is filled with monuments 
and paintings by such great artists as Michael An- 
gelo, Raphael, Canova, and Thorwaldsen. In the 
centre, under the great dome, is the altar, at which 
only the Pope celebrates mass. Over all this 
magnificent interior the light is shed wonderfully 
from the great dome and the stained glass win- 
dows on the sides. As we came out, after spend- 
ing two hours, we realized that this was truly one 
of the few great wonders of the world. From St. 
Peter's we went to the ruins of the old Roman 
Forum, where the Roman people assembled for 



38 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

meetings, to be addressed by their statesmen and 
orators and lawyers. Here Cicero swayed the peo- 
ple by his oratory. Next we visited the Quirinal, 
the home of the King and Queen of Italy, when 
in Rome. We were shown over the palace by 
one of the soldier guards. Like all the palaces 
we have seen, it is filled with costly works of art 
and covered with heavy gilding, but the rooms 
are finished and furnished in modern style. The 
throne-room, the ball-room, the conversation- 
room, the ante-rooms connected with the ball- 
room, are the most beautiful I have seen. Each 
room differs from the others in style and colors. 
In the ball-room are three magnificent glass 
chandeliers, suspended from the lofty arched ceil- 
ing ; the gallery for the orchestra is high up, so 
that the musicians are not visible. These rooms 
seem better adapted to living in than the rather 
gloomy ones in other palaces we have visited. 
Here the king who was lately assassinated made 
his home, with Queen Margherita, of whom there 
are here two beautiful full-length portraits. There 
are also portraits of the present and late kings of 
Italy. In the rear of the palace is a fine garden 
of orange-trees, palms, and hedges. 

Saturday, December 7. We made a second 
visit to St. Peter's, and we noticed some things 
we missed on our first visit. One was the bronze 
figure of St. Peter, full size. The great and little 



ITALY 39 

toes of the right foot of this figure have been 
completely worn away by the kisses of devout 
Catholics, while on the other foot, which is back 
where it cannot be reached, the toes are intact. 
We saw several people kiss the foot as they 
passed along. It must have taken the kisses of 
many millions to have worn this bronze away, 
one of the hardest of metals. The dome and 
much of the main building of St. Peter's was de- 
signed by Michael Angelo — what a genius he 
was ! We have seen his " David " at Florence, 
his paintings and frescoes equaled by only a 
very few, and here his genius shows itself in pro- 
ducing the most wonderful building in the world. 
Sculptor, painter, architect, great in all. From 
St. Peter's we entered the Vatican, which joins the 
church. In the new part of the Vatican, or palace, 
lives the Pope, whom we did not see ; but we did 
see a red-gowned cardinal going through the door 
that opened into the rooms occupied by the Pope, 
who is too old and feeble to receive visitors. The 
old part of the Vatican is used as a gallery, or 
galleries, of paintings. Here are the " Madonna 
and Child " by Murillo, and the " Transfiguration " 
by Raphael, his last work, as he died at thirty- 
seven years of age. This is called his master- 
piece, and the greatest of all paintings. Here 
also is the " Madonna and Child," by Raphael, 
done when twenty-one. These are all frescoes. 



40 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

Several rooms are entirely frescoed by Raphael. 
Here are also paintings by Murillo, Correggio, 
Titian, and many other celebrated artists. 

In the afternoon we rode out of the city to the 
old Claudian aqueduct, which was used by the 
old Romans to bring water from the hills, some 
ten miles distant. The present aqueduct is paral- 
lel to the old one and brings water from the same 
sources. On the way out of the city we stopped 
at the Catacombs, an ancient cemetery some 
fifty feet below the surface. It is in the grounds 
of the Trappist monks, one of whom showed us 
the tunnels and old vaults. Each of us bore a 
lighted candle. Except ten, these monks do not 
talk. Ten of the fifty are allowed to do the talk- 
ing for a certain length of time, then these ten 
stop talking and ten others take their place. 

We visited an old building in which Christian 
martyrs were tortured and killed while Nero 
looked on. On the walls are frescoes represent- 
ing the various modes of torture, such as pour- 
ing melted lead down throats, broiling alive, cut- 
ting off hands, etc. They show the crucifixion 
of St. Peter, and the torture and death of St. 
Cecilia. Adjoining this building is a convent of 
nuns, who also take turns in talking. 

December 8. We visited Capitol Hill, on which 
was the old Roman capitol, and from which she 
ruled the world. In the open square is the cele- 



ITALY 41 

brated esquestrian statue in bronze of Emperor 
Marcus Aurelius. In the Capitol Museum we 
saw many paintings, statues, and bronzes of 
world-wide celebrity; one marble by Canova. 
Here is the original " Dying Gladiator," found 
in Greece, the sculptor unknown, the right arm 
an entire restoration by Michael Angelo. It is a 
wonderful piece of sculpture, which, once seen, 
can never be forgotten. It represents a gladiator 
who has fought in the arena. His sword lies 
broken at his feet, there is a wound in his breast ; 
he raises himself on one arm, and his eyes, fast 
losing their light, are fixed upon the ground, 
while his life-blood ebbs away. His short, curly 
hair shows that he represents a Gaul, from the 
then savage country now occupied by the French 
nation, many of whom were brought by the Ro- 
mans and made to train and fight in the arena 
for their amusement, as gladiators, killing or 
being killed. 

" I see before me the gladiator lie, 
He leans upon his hand, his manly brow 
Consents to death, but conquers agony, 
And his drooped head sinks gradually low, 
And through his side the last drops, ebbing slow, 
From the red gash fall heavy, one by one, 
Like the first of a thunder shower ; and now 
The arena swims around him — he is gone 
Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hailed the wretch 
who won. 



42 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

He heard it, but he heeded not — his eyes 
Were with his heart, and that was far away. 
He reck'd not of the life he lost, nor prize, 
But where his rude hut by the Danube lay, 
There were his young barbarians all at play ; 
There was their Dacian mother, he their sire — 
Butchered to make a Roman holiday." 

Byron. 

At the Capitol Museum we saw the original 
bronze of a boy taking a thorn out of his foot — 
a masterpiece of Greek art. Here is the" Venus 
of the Capitol," one of the most precious statues 
in the world. 

Also here is the " Wolf of the Capitol," suck- 
ling the twins, one of whom, Romulus, founded 
Rome. 

From Rome we went to Naples, which is cele- 
brated the world over for its beautiful bay. But 
I do not think it equals the coast by Nice, 
Monte Carlo, and Mentone. We left Rome at 
8.10 a. m. and arrived at Naples at 145 p. m. 

The principal places of interest to see near 
Naples are Pompeii and Vesuvius. At Pompeii 
we engaged a guide and went over the excavated 
city, which was buried nineteen hundred years 
ago by the ashes from the volcano Vesuvius. The 
air was so full of ashes and smoke that it shut 
out the light and left the city in total darkness, 
so the inhabitants could not escape. About one 
square mile of the city has been excavated, and 




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ITALY 43 

at the entrance is the museum containing bodies 
of men, women, and children taken from the 
houses and streets just where they were buried 
nearly two thousand years ago. In this museum 
are many relics, such as cooking utensils, carpen- 
ters' and plumbers' tools, which were in use at 
that time. From the museum we entered the 
ruined city, going through street after street, into 
houses, halls, theatres, the Forum, the Coliseum, 
and places of business. Some of the houses 
showed that they had once been very fine resi- 
dences, having a central courtyard, or garden, 
surrounded with a colonnade; and frescoes with 
the colors as bright and fresh as if recently put 
on, instead of two thousand years ago. Here 
are to be seen bath-houses of marble, for taking 
hot and cold and plunge baths, with the lead 
water-pipes leading to the baths, — some ten or 
more pipes in a conduit, just as to-day they are 
placed underground. The very house is shown 
us from which the blind flower girl, Nydia, con- 
ducted her friend and benefactor out of the 
doomed city to a place of safety. In one place 
we saw a skeleton left just as it was found. The 
streets show deep indentations, worn by the 
chariot wheels of the wealthy, — the plumbers of 
Pompeii, judging from the number of bath-houses, 
all of which must have required the services of 
plumbers. At the thresholds of some of the 



44 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

residences was the word "Ave," meaning wel- 
come. At the entrance of one residence, just 
inside the threshold, on the floor of the hall, was 
the picture of a dog, full size, and the warning 
" Cave canem ! " (Beware of the dog !) all done 
in mosaic. 

At 1 1.30 we left Pompeii by carriage for Vesu- 
vius, passing on the way many vineyards, where 
the celebrated wine called " Lachrimae Christi," 
or " Tears of Christ," is made. These vineyards 
cover the sides of the mountains up to the edge 
of the beds of lava, around and through which 
our road winds to the cable road that takes us 
up the cone. This cable road was built and is 
owned by Thomas Cook & Son. On the way up 
we enjoyed magnificent views of Naples and the 
bay. 

The cable road up the cone is like the one 
up Mt. Washington, and is a straight course, 
very steep. In a few minutes we reach the top, 
and on leaving the car a guide takes us in charge, 
puts a heavy overcoat on each of us over our own 
overcoat, and leads the way to the crater itself, 
which is some 150 feet higher up, by a path 
through ashes ankle-deep, some 400 feet. We 
notice near by and following us two assistants 
with ropes, and we soon find out what they 
are for. The guide sets a fast pace for such a 
track, and we stop to catch our breath. One of 



ITALY 45 

the men says to me, " Take hold of the rope. I 
help you ; only two francs." I take hold of one, 
H. of the other, and they pull us up towards the 
top. Soon the guide has to come behind and do 
some pushing; this is two francs more. Not- 
withstanding all this pulling and pushing, H. 
and I stop. It seems impossible to take another 
step. Neither says anything, but each is in hopes 
the other will say, " Let 's quit." The guide says, 
" Only fifty feet farther," and we make a final 
effort and stand on the very top of Vesuvius, 
looking down into that boiling, seething mass of 
sulphur, smoke, and steam, which we could smell 
and of which we could feel the heat. We stop but 
a few minutes, for our hands are benumbed with 
cold, and we are enveloped in fog and clouds. 
About fifty feet down we stop and warm our hands 
at a hole in the side of a cone, from which steam 
issues. We are glad enough to reach the car, 
which we enter after escaping from the voracious 
guides, helpers, and hangers-on, who have us 
completely in their power. 

The sixty minutes on the car and going on foot 
to the crater was the worst experience of the 
kind I ever had ; the guides and helpers are no 
better than robbers. They hurry us at first and 
have us at a disadvantage; we are chilled, tired, 
and helpless. 

We reached our hotel at Naples at 6.30 p. m. 



46 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

Smoke and steam from Vesuvius, on a clear day, 
is always plainly seen from Naples. We visited 
at Naples the National Museum, filled with relics 
from Pompeii, such as frescoes, marbles, bronzes ; 
but in other respects the museums seemed tame 
after what we had seen in London, Paris, Venice, 
Florence, and Rome. 

Friday. We had a fine view of Vesuvius, it 
being a very clear day ; we saw plainly all day 
smoke and steam issuing from the crater, which 
is four thousand feet above tidewater. 

Saturday, December 14. We left Naples at 
7.34 a.m. for Brindisi, having crossed Italy three 
times; arrived at Brindisi at 7 p. m. This is one 
of the oldest cities in Europe, in that respect 
ranking with the cities of Greece. 



CHAPTER IV 

EGYPT 

Sunday, December 15. Went aboard steamer 
Osiris and took possession of our cabin, which 
we had engaged before leaving Boston. The 
Osiris is a small steamer of 1 700 tons, and can 
steam over twenty knots an hour; she carries but 
few passengers. Her most important freight is 
the mails for India and China, and she sails on 
the arrival of the mail train, which was at 1 1 p. m. 
On board we make the acquaintance of Dr. and 
Mrs. Wyman of Detroit, Mich.; they are going 
to Egypt, India, China, and Japan, and home by 
way of San Francisco. We also meet Mr. and 
Mrs. Hirsch from Chicago, on their way around 
the world. These are all very pleasant people, 
and we congratulate ourselves that we shall have 
their company in Egypt and possibly in India. 
The passage across the Mediterranean from 
Brindisi to Port Said is usually very rough, 
especially on such a fast-going steamer as the 
Osiris, of small tonnage. On the way we saw 
Turkey, and on the south the Ionian Islands of 
Greece. Quite near, on the eastern side, we could 
see Greece herself, houses and fences plainly. 



48 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

After a very uncomfortable passage of fifty-four 
hours, we arrived at Port Said, and if any one 
was ever glad to get ashore, it was H., as he had 
been seasick all the way over — fifty-four hours 
— in his berth all the time, neither eating nor 
sleeping. He had ejected everything he knew 
was in his stomach, and some things he did not 
know were there. As we came to anchor in the 
Suez Canal, at Port Said, the steamer was sur- 
rounded by boats in which were Arab boatmen, 
gesticulating and jabbering; we engaged one with 
the name of T. Cook & Son on his cap, got into 
his boat, and were soon landed at the station, 
where, after having passed through the formality 
of the custom-house, we took train for Cairo, 
running alongside of the canal to Ismailia, about 
sixty miles. Then the road leaves the canal and 
goes to Cairo, about seventy-five miles more. 

At Port Said and Ismailia we had our first 
experience with Egyptian guides, or dragomen, 
as they are called here. They insist on taking 
your hand baggage, and if they touch it, there is 
ten or twenty cents to pay. It is a regular fight 
with them. They will run on ahead and open a 
car door for you, whether you want them to or 
not; that is ten cents. They all look alike, and 
it is hard to tell which is the right one to pay, as 
they all claim something. They are so poor and 
have so little money that they think more of one- 



EGYPT 49 

half piaster — two and one half cents — than the 
poorest man in Leominster would think of fifty 
cents. 

From Ismailia we pass through a land which 
is irrigated from the River Nile, and it is as fine 
as the best farms in Iowa or Nebraska in June. 
All kinds of vegetables are growing, as well as 
corn, wheat, and cotton — some crops being 
planted, some coming up, some being harvested; 
all done in the most old-fashioned, crude way 
imaginable. All the land that is cultivated has 
to be irrigated with water from the Nile, and 
long canals extend out from the river, costing 
millions of dollars. This cultivated strip is from 
two to ten miles wide each side of the river ; out- 
side this is pure desert. The contrast between 
the garden and the sandy desert is striking. All 
the rain that falls in Egypt is not over one inch 
in a year, while we have more than that in Leo- 
minster in one good shower. In Cairo it was a 
standing joke with us each morning whether we 
should need an umbrella or a rain coat. We no- 
ticed all kinds of ways of raising the water from 
the canals on to the land; old ways described in 
the Bible. Some people scooped it up ; some 
raised it by jugs hung on a revolving wheel; 
others threw it up with a pail, while others were 
shoveling it up. The air as we rode into Cairo 
was like a June morning, only dry; here all coughs 



5 o A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

and colds disappear; no throat troubles, no ca- 
tarrh; they are all left behind, and we can count 
on a clear sky every day. We alighted from the 
train at Cairo at 5 p. m., and went direct to Shep- 
heard's Hotel, one of the noted hostelries of the 
world. We find the fellows who call themselves 
dragomen or guides very annoying in their persis- 
tent following of us, one on each side, one at rear, 
and often one in front, thrusting their cards and 
recommendations in our faces. It is as much as 
one's life is worth to step out of the hotel, as they 
hang around in swarms. A policeman in full 
uniform and sword asked me for backsheesh 
(money); he said he was looking out for my safety, 
although I was not aware of it before. I gave 
him four cents, and made him happy. 

The first day we walked out to the Nile and to 
the fine bridge which crosses the river, the only 
one at Cairo. It is a fine river of about one-third 
the average flow of water in our Mississippi, and 
about as muddy as the Missouri, but differs from 
the latter in that while the sediment of the Mis- 
souri is pure sand, the sediment of the Nile is 
vegetable matter and enriches the land which it 
overflows. Large warehouses of stone and brick 
come down to the river's edge on the Cairo side, 
and sailing vessels and steamers ply up and down. 
It presents a busy scene, more modern than I ex- 
pected to see. The one bridge across the Nile is 



















SAKKIYAH (WATER-WHEEL), EGYPT 



EGYPT 51 

a fine stone structure, and is all the time crowded 
to its fullest capacity with long strings of camels, 
and the ordinary two-wheeled carts of the natives 
mingled with the fine equipages of the nobility, 
with two black runners leading and clearing the 
way. 

One evening we joined a party made up at 
Shepheard's and visited a mosque and witnessed 
the performance of the howling and whirling 
dervishes, it being their religious service. There 
were about thirty performers ; two had green 
bands around their heads, and these were sup- 
posed to be descendants of the Prophet. The 
sheik wore a white band. There were four with 
very long hair ; these were the principal perform- 
ers, and they commenced with a sort of chant 
and gentle swaying of their bodies. This motion 
is gradually increased till it becomes violent. 
They make a noise with their mouths and throats, 
like the exhaust from a steam engine. This and 
the swaying of the bodies is all in perfect time 
together. One stands in the centre on a raised 
platform, the others in a semicircle around; the 
one in the centre at times spins around rapidly 
and violently for five minutes or over, till exhausted. 

Friday, December 20, 1901. We rode out to the 
Pyramids and Sphinx on an electric car, one hour's 
ride, about eight miles ; we had heard a good deal 
about the guides out there, and had been advised 



52 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

to get on a camel as soon as we left the car, but 
H. and I decided to engage the first good-looking 
guide who presented himself, on condition that 
he keep the others away. So we did that, and as 
it happened he proved a good one. His name 
was Farag Aly Suleiman. The way he laid his 
stick on the other fellows was a caution ; he kept 
them at a fairly good distance. He engaged two 
camels for us. They were made to kneel down, 
and we mounted them and ascended the hill to 
the great pyramid, Cheops, and to the Sphinx. 
We went down into the Temple of the Sphinx, 
which has been excavated, showing the great 
stones 15x5 feet square, brought a hundred miles 
from the quarry. The Sphinx, as is well known, 
is partly buried in the sand, and its face disfigured 
by the ravages of time. It resembles the pictures 
of it, and on the whole has a rather imposing 
appearance. The great pyramid, Cheops, is 470 
feet in height and 760 feet square at the base, the 
sides facing the four points of the compass. We 
did not go to the top, only part way up. The 
covering stones have all been taken to Cairo in 
centuries past and used there to build mosques. 
It is estimated that it took the labor of one 
hundred thousand men for thirty years to build 
Cheops, the greatest single work of human hands. 
All the guides remember Mark Twain, not from 
his books, but because he went up to the top of 



EGYPT 53 

Cheops without a guide or help, and then, to show 
what he could do, went up to the top of the smaller 
pyramid near by. 

The guides and beggars all followed us down 
to the car. Our guide tried to beat them off, but 
they, finding they could get no more money out 
of us, beset the guide for a commission on what 
he was getting, and just as the car started back 
for Cairo they pulled him off, and the last we 
saw he was fighting in the middle of an excited 
crowd of Arabs. Next day he came to our 
hotel for his pay, and said he and one other were 
arrested, but he was released and the other was 
put in jail, where he was when we left Cairo two 
weeks later. 

Taking donkeys to the Nile bridge, and from 
there a tram-car, we visited the Gizeh Museum, 
two miles from Cairo. This is an unrivaled mu- 
seum of Egyptian antiquities; it contains a great 
many mummies. Among these we saw those 
of Rameses I, II, and III. These all showed a 
family resemblance in having a very prominent 
hooked or Roman nose. Here is a stone boat of 
the same fashion as those now used, dovetailed 
and pinned together with wooden pins. Two 
boats are shown — thirty feet long, oars in the 
boat and rowlocks ; these boats were buried in 
the sand of the desert thousands of years ago. 
All of the antiquities in the museum are not less 



54 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

than three to four thousand years old, and among 
them are many articles of gold of fine workman- 
ship. In the park connected with the museum 
is a zoological garden. 

December 22. At Cairo we took the train 
twenty miles to a station two miles from old 
Memphis. On the way we passed Gizeh, where 
Joseph's brothers went to buy corn. Arrived 
at station at 9 a. m. ; found the usual horde of 
guides and donkeys. After haggling as to price 
for three quarters of an hour, we each mounted a 
donkey, and, with the driver and a following of 
Arabs, we left for Memphis. We passed through 
a village, the walls of the houses of which were 
made of mud mixed with straw, about as dirty 
and uninteresting a village as one could imagine. 
We passed and met strings of camels loaded 
with produce and freight, and donkeys trotting 
along at an easy gait. The roads are all embank- 
ments, raised above the level of the annual inun- 
dations of the Nile. 

After a ride on donkeys of over two miles 
we came to the ruins of old Memphis, the site 
of the oldest city of Egypt, founded four thou- 
sand years before the Christian era. It is now 
but a mound or hill of debris, all overgrown by 
the date palm ; here and there is a faint outline of 
a street or lane. Here are two huge reclining fig- 
ures in marble, 35 feet long, which were exca- 



EGYPT 55 

vated from the place where the temple stood, 
and which are in a good state of preservation. 
Returned to Cairo at 12 m. 

These Arabs and Egyptians do not understand 
the English language very well. They think they 
know a few words. When one of them gets too 
persistent and has followed us a quarter of a mile 
or more, and keeps right under our nose and pre- 
vents our seeing anything or conversing with each 
other, and we get all out of patience and tell him 
to " Get out," and threaten him with our canes, 
he will answer, "Thank you; see you to-morrow." 
At the station going to Memphis H. did put 
his cane onto one donkey boy that was trying to 
pull him off and make him take his donkey. The 
principal street in Cairo for retail business and 
small manufacturers is called the Muskee. Here 
and on streets leading from it are the bazaars, 
stores filled with a great variety of goods, costly 
rugs, carpets, and laces. Most of these streets 
are very narrow. The width of one was just twice 
the length of my cane, including sidewalks, and 
on each side were little stores and workshops, the 
people making and selling jewelry and trinkets, 
the street itself crowded with a mass of human- 
ity, gesticulating and noisy. This was a fair 
sample of most of the streets in this city of over 
six hundred thousand people, most of whom live 
and do business in such narrow quarters. Of 



56 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

course, where the large hotels are and large busi- 
ness blocks, and in the vicinity of the parks, there 
are wide streets, well paved and well taken care 
of. With so large an area of cramped, dirty 
streets and quarters, we think it must be un- 
healthy. But about the time the microbes and 
germs which are in the soil and air of these un- 
healthy countries we visit find out that we have 
arrived in a city, and, getting us located, organ- 
ize and choose their committees to wait upon 
us, we are off to some other city or country, and 
thereby keep our health. Dr. Wyman tells us 
that many dead are found in the streets, that 
the city officers have them picked up each morn- 
ing. A great many of the people have no homes, 
and when sick, or when they die, they drop in 
the streets. 

We visited the Citadel, which is on a hill, where 
a fine view of Cairo and the Nile valley is had. 
Near the Citadel is the Alabaster Mosque, which 
we entered after having slippers put on over our 
shoes. At the Citadel is a wall 50 feet high, over 
which the Mameluke chief jumped his horse and 
escaped, when pursued by the soldiers of Napo- 
leon. Nearby we were shown the well which is 
said to have been made by Joseph. From here 
we drove to the tombs of the Caliphs and Mame- 
lukes ; we were shown the fine mausoleum of 
the father of the present khedive. Thence our 



EGYPT 57 

route lay through a sandy plain, a portion of 
the desert, filled with pieces of old pottery and 
brick, which the guide said were remains from 
old Roman houses. We got a taste of the sandy 
desert here. The wind blew hard and filled the 
air with fine sand, which had the appearance of 
clouds or fog. We passed through old Cairo to 
the Island of Roda, where is the Nilometer used 
for centuries to mark the annual rise of the Nile ; 
as the height to which the water rose in the an- 
nual inundations meant and means to-day to the 
people of Egypt either plenty or famine. Near 
this Nilometer, and on the Island of Roda, tradi- 
tion has it that Moses was found in the bulrushes 
by the daughter of Pharaoh, and near here the 
battle of the Nile was fought by Napoleon. An 
odd sight was that of a man grinding corn with 
a set of stones about eighteen inches in diameter, 
by turning the upper stone by means of a handle. 
We passed an Egyptian funeral, the women wail- 
ing and with faces covered except the eyes. 

December 27. We rode a few miles out of 
Cairo to the obelisk of Heliopolis, the oldest in 
existence. It was looked upon by Moses, Plato, 
and Herodotus, and is about six feet square and 
80 feet in height. The annual rise of the Nile has 
raised the ground so that the base is now ten 
feet below the general surface, and the ground 
has been excavated, showing the base, to which 



58 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

steps lead. The column appears to be one stone, 
with inscriptions on four sides. Not far from here 
is the Virgin's tree, so-called because it is said that 
within its hollow trunk Mary and the child Jesus 
took refuge during the flight into Egypt. It is 
inclosed by a cement stone wall ; the trunk near 
the ground is about 30 feet in circumference; 
the whole tree has the appearance of great age ; 
the trunk and large limbs are covered with signa- 
tures. They say this is not the original tree, 
this having been planted about a thousand years 
ago in place of the original one. On the way 
back to Cairo we visited an ostrich farm contain- 
ing one thousand five hundred ostriches ; some 
were twenty-five years old ; they will live to the 
age of forty years. We noticed a few very large 
and tall ; they were at least ten feet tall in their 
stockings. One ostrich was sitting on eggs. In 
doing this work the males and females take turns 
of four hours each. The Arab keeper of this farm 
had one ostrich trained ; it would lie down and 
get up at his word of command, and would go 
through a performance in imitation of the howl- 
ing and whirling dervishes. We passed the palace 
and stables of the khedive, surrounded by exten- 
sive grounds. On the road we saw forty men 
pulling a steam road-roller. This is a hint to 
Jackson when Leominster gives him a steam 
roller to use on the roads. 




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EGYPT 59 

Arab guides and street fakirs are quick-witted 
and appreciate a joke. We were being pestered 
as we walked along a street in Cairo by several 
Arab bootblacks — real street Arabs. Pointing 
with my cane to the bare black feet of one, I 
asked him why he did not shine them ? " Oh," 
he says, " them 's finished." Then the whole 
crowd followed us a block, laughing and joking 
and asking us for backsheesh, as they will do if 
any notice is taken of them. The street in Cairo 
where Shepheard's Hotel is, presents a sight that 
cannot be matched anywhere else in the world. 
On the large veranda, roofed with iron and glass, 
we can sit contentedly for hours — no draught, 
no hot sun — and look at the fascinating sights 
in the street. Carriages of all kinds whirl by : a 
splendid barouche, perhaps, occupied by a dark- 
complexioned man, wearing the fez, and by his 
side a lady with face covered, except the eyes, by 
a thin gauze veil, two tall blacks in white running 
on in advance of the horses, barefoot, with staves 
in their hands to clear the way. They easily keep 
out of the way of the horses, though going a fast 
gait. It is said they can run fifty miles a day. 
Only the khedive or members of his family can 
have two; lesser members of the nobility can 
have one only; all others none. Then, in the con- 
tinuous procession by Shepheard's, comes an Arab 
leading a donkey hitched to a cart containing 



60 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

four or five wives, each holding in her arms a 
baby. Arabs, Egyptians, peddlers, are mixed with 
travelers from all parts of the world. On the side- 
walk there may be a Hindoo juggler performing 
with a deadly cobra snake and monkey. It is an 
endless, fascinating, moving panorama. Carnage 
hire is very cheap in Cairo — twenty-five cents an 
hour for two persons. On our chamber door at 
Shepheard's the notice reads : — 

" Ring once for maid. 

" Ring twice for waiter. 

" Ring three times for Arab." 
And the Arab was the most serviceable, answering 
the bell at once, coming in noiselessly with bare 
feet, making no more noise about the room than 
would a cat. 

December 28. Went down the Nile on the 
Cook steamer about fifteen miles to the Barrage, 
a great dam built across the Nile at a cost of 
ten million dollars, by the Egyptian government, 
some sixty years ago, just above the Delta, where 
the numerous branches of the river branch off to 
the sea at Alexandria. This dam keeps the water 
high, so as better to fill the irrigating canals, two 
of which, of great size, leave the river just above 
the dam, one in the direction of Alexandria and 
one in the direction of Port Said. The water is 
never allowed to flow over the top of the dam, 
but is regulated by a great many gates. There is 



EGYPT 61 

a narrow-gauge tram-road, owned by T. Cook & 
Son, which runs the whole length of the dam, 
over which the eleven in the party were pushed 
in three cars by Arabs, two to each car. There 
are two dams, one over the main river, and one 
over another channel. There is a fine govern- 
ment park connected with the dam on the island, 
between the two channels. The Nile, main river, 
is one third of a mile wide. 

Mr. Johnson, United States irrigation commis- 
sioner, stopping at Shepheard's, tells me that 
but one half to one inch of rain falls per annum 
in Egypt. 



CHAPTER V 

INDIA 

December 31, 1901, after a two weeks' stop, we 
left Cairo and Shepheard's Hotel for Port Said, to 
take P. & O. steamer Caledonia for Bombay. We 
had engaged our cabins for this steamer in Sep- 
tember, before leaving Boston, and she was due 
to arrive at Port Said from London for Bombay 
December 31, and to leave Port Said January 1, 
1902. At the end of the first week at Shepheard's 
the bill for board was sent to our room, and as 
we looked at the footing we were dumfounded, — 
" 1300 piasters "! We began to reckon up how 
much money we had, and to wonder whether we 
had not better return if we should have money 
enough left to do so after paying this bill ; but 
when we found a piaster was only five cents, 
making sixty-five dollars for one week for both, we 
felt better and decided to continue our journey. 

As we got into the bus at Shepheard's to go to 
the train that was to take us to Port Said, in the 
crowd that always assembles on the veranda 
and on the sidewalk w r hen guests are leaving for 
their long journey, either to the east or the west, 
we saw our guide, Aly Suleiman, whom we had 



INDIA 63 

employed many times. He waved us good-by with 
a sort of wistful look, as though he would like 
to go with us and in America better his condition ; 
in fact, he had asked us to take him with us. 
We left Cairo at 1 1 and arrived at Port Said at 
5 p. m. We found the Caledonia had arrived, and 
went aboard. The steamer is 7080 tons, and we 
each have a stateroom on the hurricane deck, 
the best on the steamer, being cooler than those 
between decks. I can lie in my berth and see 
through the open door the sea go by, or the sun 
rise, or early in the morning the Hindoo deck- 
hands washing down decks, some of them with 
beards dyed a bright red, showing they have made 
the pilgrimage to Mecca. 

As we pass along the Suez Canal, Arab men 
and boys run along either bank, asking the pas- 
sengers for backsheesh ; if an orange is thrown 
and falls short they will off with the few clothes 
they wear and swim out and get it. Many of the 
passengers are English, in the government service 
in India. At our table we are placed with Eng- 
lish army officers and their families returning to 
India from their furloughs, and it is rather diffi- 
cult for us to understand them, their accent is so 
peculiarly English and they speak so rapidly. 

January 1. There are games on board ship, in 
which the sailors take part — potato races, etc. ; 
in the evening there are recitations, music, etc. 



64 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

Passing down the Gulf of Suez, on one side we 
can plainly see Africa, on the other Asia, all a 
sandy, barren desert. Sahara on one side, on the 
other the Arabian desert. Each day the captain 
holds an inspection, at which time he requests 
all passengers who have any complaints to make 
to make them. This morning I found a dead 
cockroach in the apple sauce. I think I should 
not have said anything about it, but on the 
steamer from Brindisi to Port Said, same P. & O. 
line, I poured out of the wine bottle a very large, 
plump cockroach. The weather is fine, tempera- 
ture just right, a smooth sea. 

After passing through the Red Sea we reached 
Aden, Sunday, January 5, at 7 p. m. Here the 
steamer left and took on the mail that was to be 
transferred at this point. Aden is at the southern 
end of Arabia, not far from the coast of Africa, off 
Abyssinia, and many natives come in boats to the 
ship, which is anchored in the harbor, a mile from 
the landing. Some of the natives come on board, 
with ostrich feathers, baskets, necklaces, ostrich 
eggs, and many such things for sale. They seem 
to be a mixture of Arabs and negroes. They ask 
at first about four times the price they finally 
accept. Aden is only a coaling station, where 
the mails are transferred to other steamers. It 
must be a lonesome place to live in. 

Monday, January 6. We are passing out of 



INDIA 65 

the Gulf of Aden into the Arabian Sea. The 
water is as smooth as glass; we could play bil- 
liards on the deck. We see dolphins, whales, fly- 
ing-fish. The days are perfect. Passengers while 
away the hours and days by playing games, read- 
ing, conversing, lounging, or walking the deck. 
One evening the first cabin passengers had a 
dance on the promenade deck, which was fes- 
tooned with flags and lighted by electric lan- 
terns. Refreshments were served, and they tried 
the American two-step waltz, but I noticed only 
one couple who could do it well. On one evening 
we were treated to a concert, given bv sailors of 
the British navy, many of whom are passengers 
on their way to India. 

Friday, January 10, about 12 m., we came in 
sight of land — India — and in one hour we came 
to anchor in the harbor of Bombav, one mile from 
the landing. It is a fine harbor, and in it and 
around it are many large islands. As soon as 
the ship was anchored she was surrounded by 
boats, and natives came on board ; among them 
was, as usual, a representative of T. Cook & Son 
with a bunch of letters, one of which was for me. 
It resembled a telegraph message ; for a few min- 
utes I was verv anxious, for no one likes to o*et a 
telegram so far away from home ; but on opening 
the envelope it proved to be a notice from the 
office of T. Cook & Son, in Bombay, that letters 



66 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

were awaiting me there. This shows how well 
they look out for their customers. The list of 
passengers must have been telegraphed to them 
from Port Said or Aden. Their agent took 
charge of our baggage and later it was sent to 
our hotel ; it went through the customs with- 
out any trouble for us. T. Cook & Son have 
offices in all the large cities of the world on the 
main lines of travel, containing reading-rooms, 
a mailing department, money department, and 
an information bureau, all of which are at the 
service of their patrons. At Bombay we went 
to the Esplanade Hotel ; our room was a large 
one, looking out on two parks and wide streets, 
with a view of the sea; being on the north side, 
it was comparatively cool and airy; price $1.62 
each per day, including everything; and this is 
one of the two best hotels in the city. Here we 
get our first real glimpse of tropical, Oriental 
life. Life on the street and in the hotel differs 
from anything we have before seen. At 9 p. m. 
the mercury in the hotel office stood at 84 de- 
grees. The first evening in our room we had 
many callers — first came a native in bare feet 
and bare legs, bringing up my trunk on his head 
three flights: it weighed over a hundred pounds; 
then another native wanted us to engage him as 
our servant while in India; then another appeared 
with a receipt for me to sign ; another to get 



INDIA 67 

our laundry; one with a message which proved, 
fortunately, to be for some one else ; another 
came for half a rupee for something or other he 
had done for us; we never knew what it was. I 
was interrupted many times in finishing a letter 
to go on the next day's steamer. Servants of the 
hotel seem to be everywhere, all with bare feet, 
with the scantiest clothing, and slight, thin bodies ; 
in the evening we pass them making up their little 
beds on the edge of the sidewalks, as most of them 
sleep out of doors, for even in this, the coldest sea- 
son of the year, the mercury ranges from 70 to 85 
degrees. A funny sight to us was the little bul- 
locks hitched to a two-wheeled cart, trotting along 
the streets, guided by a native with a stick. There 
is a hump on their shoulders, and their horns lie 
back on that hump. All the baggage was brought 
to the hotel by these bullocks. There seems to be 
the same old crowd in the streets as at Cairo — 
of guides, servants, peddlers, jugglers, snake- 
charmers. We found it so warm that we had to 
invest at once in thin clothing, and ordered a suit 
of all-wool thin cashmere at ten in the morning, 
made to order ; it was brought to our hotel at 
three in the afternoon of the same day — price 
eight dollars. 

January 12. We went in a small steamer to an 
island, some fifteen miles across the bay, where are 
the celebrated caves of Elephanta. These caves 



68 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

were dug out of the solid rock some thousands 
of years ago. Columns, figures of elephants, and 
of Hindoo deities have been carved out of the 
rock, and the whole shows signs of great age and 
is crumbling to pieces, the columns having to 
be strengthened by bands of iron. The excava- 
tion does not extend far enough to require arti- 
ficial light. There was nothing about these caves 
that seemed to me to warrant their celebrity ; 
their great age and the superstitious awe with 
which they are regarded by the natives are the 
main features of interest. In going from and re- 
turning to the boat we were beset by a horde of 
nearly naked beggars. We threw them a few small 
pieces of silver, and they fought for them as half- 
starved dogs would for a piece of meat, following 
the boat out as far as they could go in the mud and 
water. On our way to these caves we crossed the 
harbor or bay of Bombay, which is one of the 
best and largest in the world. 

One day we rode out to the Victoria Zoological 
gardens of Bombay, which are very fine. It being 
a holiday, there were great crowds of natives in 
brilliant costumes, groups of families, parents and 
children, all seeming to be having a good time, 
and happy — all with bare feet. A young fellow 
was our guide around the gardens, and he felt his 
importance immensely ; the way he would drive 
the natives away from the cages of the animals so 




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INDIA 69 

as to make room for us was worth seeins*. We 
were the only white persons among the thou- 
sands, and they all made way for us. 

In the park is the museum building, containing 
skeletons of birds and animals of all kinds, skins, 
rare coins, and gems; we saw one skeleton of some 
ancient animal some eighty feet in length. The 
building contained many curiosities and was 
crowded with natives, who, at a word from our 
native guide, stood aside as we came up to see the 
things of interest. From here we rode to the Tower 
of Silence, on Malabar Hill, where the Parsees 
dispose of their dead. The bodies are placed on 
a grating on the top of the building or tower, 
some three or four each night about two o'clock, 
for vultures to eat. They come and pick off the 
flesh in a few minutes, and the bones fall through 
to the bottom, and, as the Parsees claim and de- 
sire, mingle with the bones of their ancestors. 
A row of ten or twelve vultures was sitting on 
the roof of the building, and hundreds of others 
were roostino; on the trees in the vicinity. — bi^, 
black, filthy-looking creatures. I was glad to leave 
the place, though the memory haunted me for 
days, of the black vultures sitting in the tops of 
trees around, once in a while one lazily flying 
a short distance; all waiting for their horrible 
feast to come in the night. The whole thing 
seemed to me simply horrible, and yet the Par- 



7 o A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

sees are the most intelligent and wealthiest of 
the native inhabitants of Bombay, being the busi- 
ness men of the city; they are called the "Jews 
of India." 

From the top of Malabar Hill a splendid view 
of Bombay is had ; this is the fashionable resi- 
dential part of the city. The ride from here, 
along the shores of the bay, just at sunset, was 
fine, the deep, golden red rays lighting up the 
waters of the bay. On our way we passed the 
so-called cemetery of the native Hindoos, where 
their dead are cremated. We saw many women 
and girls carrying mortar, stones, and brick, in 
baskets on their heads to the top of tall build- 
ings which were being built ; also men sawing, 
by hand, boards from timber, and slabs of marble 
and stone. Human labor seems to be the cheap- 
est thing in India. 

The men wear a short tunic and drawers, 
coming about one third down to the knee, and a 
breech-cloth ; I have seen boys fourteen years 
old with only the latter. There are many more 
servants employed than would be needed to do 
the same work in the United States. In going to 
our room in the hotel we almost stumble over 
them, lying in the passageways in front of the 
rooms. We have one assigned especially to us. 

Although I have seen a modern street sprink- 
ler, the sprinkling is generally done by a native 



INDIA 71 

with a hog or goat skin slung over his back, 
filled with water, which he squirts around over 
the street as he walks along. The bullocks used 
on the streets are great travelers ; our horse team 
was several times passed by them, trotting along 
at good speed, with a load of jolly natives in the 
funny two-wheeled cart. 

The natives call us " sahib " or " master/' One 
peddler of cards of postage stamps ran along by 
our side, saying in broken English, " Master, buy! 
very cheap, Master ! " After he had kept it up a 
block or two, thinking to get rid of him I turned 
on him and said, " Slave, me want none, get out ! " 
But it had a different effect than I expected ; he 
took it as a compliment, and redoubled his efforts 
to sell to us. 

I have seen so many old things, ruins, etc., 
hoary with antiquity, in Egypt and India, that I 
was filled with joy the other night to get a 
glimpse of the new moon. I do not feel exactly 
at home if I sleep in a hotel less than three thou- 
sand years old. While booking my name at a 
hotel, I thoughtlessly asked the proprietor under 
which dynasty the building was erected, and in 
which century it became a ruin. He took it as 
a compliment, and said he knew it was not as old 
as it ought to be, but it was growing older every 
day. 

January 15, 1902. Dr. Wyman and wife of De- 



72 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

troit go to-day and we are very sorry to part with 
them, as we have been with them a great deal 
and they are very pleasant companions. We leave 
at 8.30 p. m. for Benares. Bought a bed (a sort of 
quilt), pillow, and towel to use on the cars, as these 
things are not furnished by the railway com- 
pany. From thirty-five to sixty are dying each 
twenty-four hours in Bombay of the plague ; all 
are the poorer class of natives. When the disease 
breaks out in a house, all the inmates of that house 
and others in the vicinity are removed to large 
tents in the parks and vacant lots, and isolated. 
We see these tents all over the city ; there are a 
hundred within a short distance of our hotel. 

Took train at 8.30 p. m. from the Victoria Rail- 
way Station, one of the finest — if not the finest — 
in the world ; the exterior is like a great cathe- 
dral, with its spires, towers, and domes ; the whole 
is in a large park, with extensive lawns, shrubs, 
and flower beds. As Bombay is quarantined, we 
were examined in our compartment on the train, 
before leaving, by a physician. We had a com- 
partment to ourselves ; it was 9x18 feet, and had 
a door opening into a servants' room and one into 
a large lavatory. The best railway accommoda- 
tions yet — a fine roadbed ballasted with broken 
rock. At one of the stations in the farming dis- 
trict I overheard a station agent say to an official 
on the road, " There is a tiger over here ; killed a 



INDIA 73 

family two days ago." We see many wild mon- 
keys ; they are not molested by the natives, being 
considered by them as sacred. Many of the water 
courses seem dried up, and are used in many 
cases for roads. The wheat, of which there are 
large tracts, is only ten inches high, and heading 
out at that. Much of the land seems burned up, 
and no wonder, as in many places there has been 
no rain for from two to four years ; but there are 
also large tracts that appear green and well culti- 
vated, in good condition. The cattle look better 
than in Egypt. Near and around Benares the 
crops look much better than back towards Bom- 
bay, as they have had rain this last summer — no 
more will now be expected, anywhere, before 
June. We arrived at Mogul Serai at 4 a. m., 
Friday, January 17, after a very comfortable 
ride of thirty-one hours. At this station we 
changed cars for Benares, — twenty minutes' ride. 
Arrived at Benares at 9.30 a. m. ; should have 
arrived at 6.30, but a station man put us into a 
car at Mogul Serai and said it was going to 
Benares at 6. At that time we found ourselves 
pulled out a mile, when we learned that the car 
was not going, so had a servant take our luggage 
on his head, to the station, a mile away, and we 
followed on foot, just too late to catch the 6 
o'clock train. 

At Benares we went to Hotel de Paris, a good, 



74 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

neat-looking, one-story house, built of stone, long 
and low, and with nice broad verandas. As our 
time was limited we took a carriage at once, with 
driver, guide, and outrider behind, rode to the 
famous river Ganges, and took a boat up and 
down the river ; it was a great sight. The banks 
are lined with temples and residences, all with 
long flights of stone steps leading down to the 
river. Thousands of people, men, women, and 
children, were bathing in and drinking the water, 
which was very filthy. The Hindoos consider the 
river holy, and believe that if their bodies, after 
death, or their ashes, are cast into the river, they 
are sure to go to heaven. Some bodies are 
weighted with stones and then thrown in ; others 
are consumed with fire, and the ashes thrown in. 
We saw dead bodies being burned on the edge of 
the river in a pile of burning wood, and others 
done up in cloth, in a pile of wood, ready for the 
match. The temples here — which have been 
lauded so highly by Stoddard and other writers 
— did not impress me very much. The greatest 
sight was the people from all parts of India who 
crowded the shores of the river, some in good 
health, some but skin and bones, dragging them- 
selves here to die by the sacred river. Some rich, 
coming with carriages and servants, some in very 
scanty clothing, and beggars, all joining together 
in the waters of the (to them) holy river Ganges. 



INDIA 75 

We went into the Golden Temple, so called 
from the amount of gold used in the dome and 
other parts, estimated to be worth fifteen hun- 
dred thousand dollars. We saw the famous car 
of Juggernaut, under the wheels of which so 
many fanatics have thrown themselves and been 
crushed to death ; this is not now allowed by the 
government. The car is drawn through the 
streets twice each year by fifty natives ; it has 
twenty-five wheels ; there are seats on top and in 
front, for men dressed to represent the Hindoo 
deities. The whole is gilded heavily. We went 
to the famous monkey temple, where hundreds, 
if not thousands, of monkeys are kept, being con- 
sidered sacred. There is a large reservoir of water, 
walled with cut stone, for the monkeys to bathe 
in ; it is an acre in extent. Before we went into 
the temple we had to buy ten cents' worth of 
grain to feed them with ; they came around us 
by dozens and pulled the dish from our hands. 
In the grounds of some of the temples sacred 
white bulls were wandering around at their own 
sweet will. It is very strange and to me incom- 
prehensible that such things can be. What 
strange things men will do in the name of re- 
ligion ! These people must be sincere believers 
in their religion, but misled by centuries of false 
teaching. Benares is the oldest city in the world, 
and was at the height of its prosperity a thousand 



76 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

years before Christ; it is the holiest city of the 
Hindoos, being the birthplace of the religion of 
Buddha. 

India is subject to periodical droughts of great 
severity, and so the English government has 
built and has under way the greatest system of 
irrigating canals and reservoirs of any country in 
the world. The mighty range of mountains on 
the north, the Himalayas, covered with melting 
snows, and the heavy rains that fall at certain 
seasons upon the lower slopes and foothills of 
these mountains, afford a vast supply of water 
for storage in the reservoirs. When the system 
is complete, the severe droughts that periodically 
afflict the agricultural portion of India, causing 
the death of millions, will be largely remedied by 
irrigation. 

January 18, at 3 a. m. we took the train at 
Benares for Calcutta; we had a compartment to 
ourselves all the way. On each side, stretching 
far away, were great fields of wheat, tea, jute, 
castor bean, and indigo. The country looked 
better than from Bombay to Benares ; not so 
dried up. Our line of travel lay most of the way 
down the valley of the Ganges, which we crossed 
several times, arriving at Calcutta at 6.45 p. m., 
on time. India roads seem to be run more like 
our American roads, starting on time and keep- 
ing up to the schedule. We went at once to Mrs. 




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INDIA 77 

Monk's Grand Hotel, which is called the best in 
Calcutta, and were told that all the rooms were 
engaged, but they could give us a tent on the 
roof. After looking at it and having another cot 
put in it for H., we decided to stay. We had a 
servant assigned to us named Abdul, to whom we 
pay one rupee per day (32 cents), and he boards 
himself. He waits on us all the time, looks 
after our room, often lying on a rug at our room 
door, like a dog, blacks our shoes, waits on us at 
table, and when we ride out, he jumps on the 
seat by the driver. At dinner there was a great 
deal of dress for such an ordinary hotel — men 
all in dress-suits. We have every convenience in 
our tent on the roof, but rather crude. The roof 
is solid stone and cement ; the tent is double. 
We had a very good first night's sleep for such 
quarters. We could look out of the tent in the 
early morning from our beds and see the black 
birds that look like crows and act as scavengers 
(being on that account unmolested), roosting on 
the roof and chimneys and looking at us with 
apparent curiosity. We rather like the tent, for 
it is quiet and airy. H. remarked, "What if a 
Nebraska tornado should strike us in the night!" 
Sunday, January 1 9. We went to the site of old 
Fort William, near the fine post-office building. 
The fort was the place where so many British 
citizens were confined over night and suffocated 



78 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

for want of air, — otherwise known as the Black 
Hole of Calcutta. The following inscription is 
on a building covering part of the site : " The 
marble pavement below this spot was placed here 
by Lord Curzon, viceroy and governor-general of 
India, in 1901, to mark the site of the prison in 
old Fort William, known as the Black Hole, in 
which 146 inhabitants of Calcutta were confined 
on the night of the 20th of June, 1756, and from 
which only 23 came out alive. The pavement 
marks the exact width of the prison, 14 feet 10 in., 
but not its full length, 18 ft., about one-third of 
the area at the north end being covered by the 
building on which this tablet is fixed." We called 
on the United States consul-general, Pattison, 
and found him very agreeable, and willing to be 
of any service to us. He says the park in front 
of our hotel is three miles long by one mile wide ; 
the best residences are near it and there are many 
monuments in it. The government residence, 
occupied by the governor-general of India, is at 
one end, and is a very handsome building, sur- 
rounded by extensive and beautiful grounds, at 
the entrances to which are stationed British sol- 
diers in bright red uniforms. 

January 21. We engaged a carriage and rode 
across the Ganges to the Calcutta Botanical Gar- 
dens, in which is the " great Banyan tree," which 
those who attended school fifty years ago have 



INDIA 79 

read about and seen illustrated in our geographies. 
The following is the inscription on it : " The 
great Banyan tree, native of India; this tree is 
about 131 years old; the circumference of its 
trunk at 5 1-2 feet from the ground is 51 feet 
and of its crown about 938 feet; its height is 85 
feet ; it has 464 aerial roots actually rooted in the 
ground December, 1900." The gardens are filled 
with a variety of native trees, a great many palms, 
and there are long avenues of palm-trees. Saw 
the palace where the king of Oude was kept by 
the British after the insurrection at Lucknow 
and Cawnpore was put down. The king died 
some eleven years ago. Here he lived, with a 
great many wives, and surrounded by hundreds 
of retainers and slaves, and made a great collec- 
tion of wild beasts and birds. These accumula- 
tions (wild beasts and birds) have been sold by 
the British government, which supplied him 
while living with six hundred thousand dollars 
per annum. 

January 22. We visited some jewelers' work- 
shops in the native quarter of the city, and saw 
the native workers in gold and silver working 
in crude but skillful fashion, the figures being 
finely chased. We visited the Imperial Museum. 
Here is a very large and fine collection of stuffed 
animals of all kinds, native to India; a fine col- 
lection of carved woods and ivory, India rugs, 



80 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

minerals, and skeletons of all animals known to 
India — I think the finest collection and the 
most instructive I have ever seen, and arranged 
admirably. I have been several times handed a 
telegraphic message by a native messenger on 
the street, who asked, by signs, if it was for me, 
which goes to show how few white people there 
are in Calcutta — a city of a million people — 
compared to the natives. Bought round-trip 
ticket to Darjeeling and return, 66 rupees; also 
round trip for Abdul, our boy, or servant, 14 ru- 
pees, being only $4.50 for 700 miles of railway 
for a servant. 

The cost of a carnage, two horses, driver, and 
footman, carrying us and servant, in India is one 
rupee (thirty-two cents) per hour. I have seen 
nine men carrying a large piano on their heads 
through the streets in Calcutta. Almost all of the 
freight is conveyed through the streets in this 
way. 

January 24. Took train at 4 p. m. for Darjeel- 
ing, 350 miles distant from Calcutta, in the Hi- 
malaya Mountains. At 8 p. m. we changed from 
train to boat on the Ganges River ; had dinner 
on boat, then changed to sleeper on train. 25th, 
at 7 a. m., we changed to narrow-gauge road, and 
arrived at Darjeeling at 1 p. m., after riding 350 
miles and climbing 7400 feet. The scenery along 
the route was wild, beautiful, and tropical : high 




a 



INDIA 81 

ridges and deep gorges on each side, covered 
with dense tropical forests, and snow-covered 
mountains in the distance. Before arriving at 
Darjeeling it became quite cold, and overcoats 
and wraps were needed. At Darjeeling we went 
to Woodland Hotel and found a good fire in our 
rooms. Abdul looks after our baggage and rooms. 
He does not like the cold here. The beds at 
Woodland's Hotel were a fair sample of the beds 
in India. For a joke I placed in the centre of 
H.'s bed, crossways under the sheet, a 6o-penny 
iron spike, but he never noticed it, and in the 
morning when I pulled it out and showed it to 
him, he said he thought he noticed a soft spot in 
the bed. There were so many other places so 
much worse that the spike actually seemed soft 
and like down. On the morning of the 26th the 
sun shone brightly, and we went up on Observa- 
tory Hill and had a very fine view of the magni- 
ficent Himalayas, with Mount Everest in the 
distance, 120 miles away, and 29,000 feet high, — 
highest in the world, — Kinchin-Jinga, the sec- 
ond highest, being 28,156 feet elevation, and 
only forty miles distant. The view was simply 
incomparable ; the deep valley at our feet, some 
2000 feet lower, then the mountains, rising, peak 
on peak, up to the matchless peaks of Everest 
and Kinchin-Jinga, covered with eternal snow, 
and where the foot of no living thing had ever 



82 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

trod. Through a glass we could distinctly see 
glaciers. Darjeeling is one of the most pictur- 
esque spots in India, built on the sides of moun- 
tains, the streets and buildings one above another, 
a tremendous deep gorge, or gorges, below, and 
in the distance the matchless Himalayas, snow- 
clad more than halfway down. The natives are 
a mixture of Chinese, Indians, and Thibetans, 
and are a stronger class than those on the plains 
below. The charge for taking me in a sedan chair 
— six men — to a high hill and back — twelve 
miles, round trip — is five rupees, and for one 
horse, with one man, to take me to same place 
on horseback, is four rupees, taking about five 
hours ; which shows that the labor of a man is 
much cheaper than that of a horse in this coun- 
try. We see women and young girls carrying, for 
a mile or more, on their heads, baskets of stone 
and dirt for the repairing and building of roads; 
and carrying brick and stone up to the tops of 
high buildings. Saw one slender girl (my cane 
just came up under her ear) carrying baskets of 
dirt on her head for road work, for eight cents 
a day. Saw babies not four months old, lying 
in baskets, the mothers working, shoveling, hoe- 
ing, and carrying heavy loads on their heads. 
At Darjeeling we had a feeling almost of home- 
sickness. We seemed to be not only on the 
opposite side of the earth but up in the clouds, 



INDIA 83 

not in contact with the earth; it seemed farther 
from America and home than any other place 
on our trip. Our servant, " Ab," supports his 
mother, wife, two children, and himself in Cal- 
cutta on the one rupee he gets a day. Here 
at Darjeeling, among the snow-covered Hima- 
layas, he is not used to the cold, and is almost 
frozen all of the time, though we gave him 
in Calcutta, before leaving for this mountainous 
country, three dollars with which to buy thick 
blankets. Often we let him into our room by 
the fire to thaw out. One evening H. and I 
whistled and sang " Home, Sweet Home," to 
him, as only H. and I can do it. 

The Hindoos, by centuries of hunger and op- 
pression, have had all sense of humor driven out 
of them. Our Ab has straight hair and features, 
is slightly built, has large, dark, sad eyes, and a 
copper-colored skin, and when we sang that tune 
to him and tried to explain that it meant our 
home, twelve thousand five hundred miles away, 
and his home in Calcutta, where, as he says, are 
his " mudder, wife, two chidden," we thought we 
detected a faint smile around those sad eyes that 
had never shown a smile before ; any way, he 
soon left the room and went out and lay down on 
the cold, cold ground. Our music was too much 
for him. 

When Ab waits upon us at meals he dresses up 



84 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

in a spotless white robe, with green sash, black 
turban, and bare feet. 

Darjeeling is not far from the boundaries of 
Thibet, Persia, China, Burmah, and here we see 
types of the natives of all these countries, as well 
as of India ; there are more varieties of types here 
than in any other spot on the globe, as we were 
informed by Mr. Oscar Browning, professor of 
history in Oxford University, and guest of the 
Viceroy of India at Calcutta. 

January 29. Were carried in a sedan chair, on 
the heads of four men, to the post-office, botani- 
cal gardens, cemetery, and to a place where, in 
1899, there was a landslide caused by tremendous 
rains — twenty-eight inches falling in twenty- 
four hours — that carried away houses and roads, 
destroying many lives. It is a fearful-looking 
place, sloping almost perpendicularly into a val- 
ley thousands of feet deep. 

January 30. We left Darjeeling at 11 a. m. on 
the little narrow-gauge road, — 2 J feet gauge, — 
and the ride down was even more wonderful 
than going up, over the wonderful curves, loops, 
and switch-backs. One loop passes around a 
house one and a half times, dropping in the dis- 
tance fifty feet. The road is fifty miles long, but 
does the climbing in forty-three miles, rising 
seventy-four hundred feet. The engine backs 
down the grade, consuming two hours' more 




ABDUL 



INDIA 85 

time than was taken in going up. The 
morning we left Darjeeling we w r ere favored with 
the finest view of the Himalayas and Kinchin- 
Jinga we had had. The clouds covering the base 
of the mountains, their white summits visible 
above, seemed to be coming out of the sky, and 
a part of the heavens above instead of the earth 
below. 

January 31. Arrived at the river Ganges at 
5.30 a. m. ; crossed in a steamer and took a train 
for Calcutta, which we reached at 11 a. m., — 
three hundred miles by wide gauge and fifty by 
narrow-gauge railway. 

February 3. Went over to the zoological gar- 
dens. There was a good collection of animals 
native to India, some very fine specimens of ti- 
gers, the finest I ever saw, very large and hand- 
some. Tigers abound in the section below Cal- 
cutta to the sea, in the delta of the numerous 
outlets of the Ganges. 

February 4. At 4 p. m. left hotel and went 
aboard the P. & O. steamer Formosa, bound for 
Colombo, Ceylon. Good-by to India and to our 
faithful servant, Abdul. Who will now bring us 
hot tea in the morning before we are up, black 
our shoes, and wait upon us, insisting on dressing 
and undressing us, wmether we want him to or 
not ? Keeping guard over our rooms and over 
ourselves, Abdul was a servant and not a porter, 



86 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

and his caste did not allow him to carry baggage, 
and so he would at a railway station call a porter 
to carry our trunks and even our hand baggage, 
which at home we would not be ashamed to carry 
ourselves. 



CHAPTER VI 
CEYLON AND SINGAPORE 

February^ 1902, we boarded the steamer which 
was to take us from Calcutta to Ceylon, — the 
Formosa, of three thousand tons. All berths 
were taken ; there were three in our cabin ; on 
the steamer there is space for only thirty first 
cabin passengers ; there are no second or third 
cabins. We went out of the dock Tuesday night 
into the Ganges River, then down the river, with 
a pilot, till Wednesday afternoon, came to anchor 
till Thursday morning, waiting for high tide so 
as to get over the bar at the mouth of the river. 
We arrived at Pilot Ship at 1.30 p. m. Thursday, 
February 6, and let the pilot go. We took a direct 
southerly course for Colombo, Ceylon, down the 
Bay of Bengal. Mr. Zahm and Mr. Colley and 
ladies, Americans, Messrs. O'Hagan and Bishop, 
Londoners, are on board, in all some sixteen 
whom we met on the Caledonia from Port Said 
to Bombay ; also, there is a live lord on board, 
a young man about twenty-five, who is approach- 
able and sociable. We are having a very smooth 
sea, hardly any motion to the boat. The table is 
the best we have had on any steamer yet. The 



88 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 



weather is getting warm ; some of the passengers 
have their beds brought up and sleep on deck ; 
all the passengers are sociable and agreeable. 
We have seen many porpoises playing around 
the bows of the ship ; also, flying-fish getting out 
of the way. We have seen them go through the 
air a few feet above the water, for four hundred 
feet, actually flying ; they have thin wings like a 
bat or butterfly, and are about as large as a 
swallow. 

We came to anchor inside the breakwater at 
Colombo on February 10, at 4 P.M. The health 
officer came aboard and we were quarantined with 
the yellow flag flying at the masthead for four 
hours. In the mean time all the passengers were 
examined by the health officer, and before leaving 
the steamer the passengers had to deliver up all 
their soiled linen, which was taken on shore, fumi- 
gated, and brought back the next day to Colombo. 
Boats with nearly naked natives thronged around 
the steamer. Their boats were merely two sticks of 
timber, turned up at the ends and lashed together, 
which they paddled with a piece of flat bamboo. 
The passengers threw silver pieces, shillings, into 
the water, and the boatmen would plunge over- 
board, dive, and catch the coin every time before 
it got away. The fellow who dived after the piece 
I threw in went down twenty feet and was gone 
a long time, but finally came up with it in his 



CEYLOX AND SINGAPORE S 9 

mouth. On one boat there were six men ; one had 
but one arm, but he did not fail to get his portion 
of the coin. Four of the six were voung; fellows, 
and once in a while they would stand up in their 
boat and sing: " There '11 be a hot time in the old 
town to-night " quite well ; then they would sit 
down and yell out, "All right," meaning for us to 
throw more coin overboard. They become expert 
in the water by diving for pearls. We had a hard 
time setting; from the steamer on to the launch. 
The water was very rousfh and the ladder down 
the ship's side was very steep. Mrs. Zahm, who 
weighs nearlv 22;. had an especially hard time 
of it, the little launch bobbing around at a great 
rate. We finally came to the landing and got on 
to the wharf, bag; and bas^asje. being; assisted by 
the young: Lord Helmslev. He seems to have no 
airs, although he is to be the o-uest of the governor 
of Ceylon, whose representative met him on the 
steamer as soon as we came to anchor. The re- 
presentative was a native, dressed in native cos- 
tume, resplendent with gold lace, but with bare 
feet ; his hair was done up in a knot on the back 
of his head with a large tortoise-shell comb on top. 
reaching: from ear to ear. This way of dressing: 
the hair seems to be the fashionable thins: for 
the men in Cevlon, the women wearing; their hair 
very plainly down the neck, with no combs or 
ornaments. While we were on the launch com- 



9 o A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

ing to the landing there was a heavy thunder 
shower. It seems to rain here nearly every after- 
noon, which makes the air very muggy, like our 
dog-days, the mercury getting up to 90 degrees 
and over. We stop at the Grand Oriental Hotel, 
near the landing, and central. It is far better than 
any hotel in India, and as good as Shepheard's at 
Cairo. We see from our room queer little rikshas, 
drawn by one man in the shafts, going by at 
good speed, and carrying one passenger ; we also 
see carriages drawn by one bullock. 

We have to report to the health officer every 
day for four days. He feels our pulse and looks 
at our tongue; all this on account of having come 
from Calcutta, which is infected with the "plague." 
Our steamer brought from Calcutta a man sick 
with fever, an Englishman, who married a native 
of India, whose father was English and whose 
mother was a full-blooded Indian. She is very 
highly educated and speaks several languages; 
she is devoted to her sick husband, who, when 
on the steamer, lay on deck nearly all day, look- 
ing badly. The passengers helped the doctor 
bring him up from below. 

Lord Helmsley told me he was to stay in 
Ceylon a month hunting wild elephants; that he 
had been in India shooting tigers and leopards; 
that from one tiger the party shot they took off 
the skin and then watched the vultures devour 




TREE FERNS, KANDY, CEYLON 



CEYLON AND SINGAPORE 91 

the flesh, and it was just fifteen minutes when 
they had the bones completely stripped and all 
the flesh eaten. 

February 12 we rode out to the cinnamon 
garden, so called from the groves of cinnamon 
trees in it; their fragrance filled the air; from here 
by the Galle Face Hotel and along the drive by 
the sea, which was very fine. On the 13th, at 
7. 30 a. m., we took the train for Kandy, about in 
the centre of the Island of Ceylon, passing through 
a very tropical country. On each side were groves 
of cocoanuts, bananas, pineapples, with native 
huts in them, a very beautiful country, more 
tropical than anything we had seen. There is so 
much moisture and heat that vegetation is forced 
and grows luxuriantly. To get up to Kandy we 
rise some 1700 feet, and find the air cool and 
bracing, very agreeable after the hot, close air 
of Colombo. We stop at the Queen's Hotel, a 
very good one, with one of the best tables we 
have so far seen. The hotel is crowded with 
guests. We met here quite a number who were 
on the Caledonia and Formosa, Messrs. Zahm 
and Colley, and ladies, the Hoods, O'Hagan, 
Bishop, and others. We find Kandy a fine old 
town, with wide, clean streets. In the centre, 
opposite our hotel, is a lake of pure, clear 
water, fed by mountain streams, around which is 
a lovely drive of some three miles, a smooth hard 



92 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

road, lined with residences of tropical build, with 
wide verandas, overhanging roofs, all set in groves 
of palms, cannas, tree ferns, and tropical flowers, 
which with us are grown out of doors only in the 
summer. We visited the temple of Buddha's 
Tooth, so called because there is kept in a vault, 
under lock and key, a tooth some two inches long, 
said to have once been his. We saw a portrait of 
the last native king of Ceylon ; his old palace is 
now used as a court of law. We looked on while 
a case was being tried by native lawyers, before 
a native judge. Except from their language, the 
color of their skin, and the novel and ancient ap- 
pearance of the palace, I should not have known 
that I was not in a court-house in Massachusetts. 
The same air of intelligence, dignity, and of the 
dispensation of law and justice appeared to per- 
vade the court-room that, of course, always per- 
vades the court-rooms of the towns and cities of 
Massachusetts. In the temple there were many 
Buddhist Bibles, written in Sanskrit on palm leaf; 
there was also a large golden image of Buddha. 
Near by is a pond of bad-smelling water, in which 
are large and small tortoises, which are considered 
sacred. 

On the afternoon of February 13 we took a pho- 
tographer about four miles out, to the river Maha- 
velle-Ganga, meaning big sandy river. It is the 
largest and longest river in Ceylon, 137 miles in 



CEYLON AND SINGAPORE 93 

length, and the elephants in the vicinity are 
brought by their keepers every afternoon to bathe 
in the water for two or three hours. There were 
four or five of these animals, one very large, with 
large tusks. His keeper was lying on the ele- 
phant's back asleep, while only the end of the 
trunk and top of the back of the elephant were 
visible above the water. On our photographer's 
hallooing to him, the keeper made the elephant 
get up and come ashore ; he was so tall and so 
wet, and no ladder or blanket to be had, that we 
decided not to mount him, but had our pictures 
taken standing by him, with his keeper, in pic- 
turesque costume and hooked staff, by his side. 
Afterwards, the keeper quietly, in a few words, 
told the elephant to take up the steep bank of 
the river a green stick of timber, 16 feet long 
and 16 inches in diameter, which he accom- 
plished by winding his trunk around it in the 
exact place it would balance, which he found by 
a few trials, and placing it on his tusks, walked 
up the hill and dropped the log as directed. 

February 14, St. Valentine's day, we rode out 
some four miles to the botanical gardens, cer- 
tainly the finest we ever saw, which was also the 
verdict of our critical English friends. They are 
situated on the river, along which winds a fine 
road ; they are full of all the varieties of trees, 
shrubs, and flowers known to Ceylon — the cin- 



94 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

namon, nutmeg, banana, clove, mango, banyan, 
and bread-fruit. We went over a tea plantation, 
and saw hundreds of the natives picking the 
small leaves ; went into the tea drying and pack- 
ing houses and witnessed the various processes 
of curing, preparing, and packing the tea for ship- 
ment to all parts of the world. 

The island of Ceylon is about two hundred and 
fifty miles long and one hundred and twenty-five 
wide in its widest part, being shaped like a pear. 
Kandy is ninety miles from Colombo by railway, 
and in the central part of the island, which is 
certainly one of the loveliest spots on this earth, 
and deserves to have been, as tradition says it was, 
the "Garden of Eden." Man can live here with 
very little exertion. The wants of the natives are 
few, and it is almost within bounds to say they 
have only to lie down and open their mouths and 
all the fruits and spices known to this most fa- 
vored island will drop into them. 

The natives of Ceylon are far more intelligent- 
looking, neater, live in better homes, than those 
of Egypt or India. We see public schools every- 
where. In Kandy is a girls' high school. We see 
boys and girls going to or coming from school, 
with schoolbooks, and with the old-fashioned 
slates, bound with wood, just such as I can remem- 
ber using. All the people seem very happy and 
contented, the women quite good-looking, and 



CEYLON AND SINGAPORE 95 

with an air of refinement and modesty ; yet all 
with copper-colored skin and bare feet, but better 
clothed than the natives of Egypt or India. 

On the way to Kandy we passed within a few 
miles of the camp of the Boer prisoners. The 
natives of Egypt, India, and Ceylon have no pet 
animals, like dogs, cats, or birds ; they cannot 
afford that luxury. The food these animals would 
eat the natives need themselves. 

We left Kandy on the morning of February 
15, and arrived at Colombo, at the Grand Ori- 
ental Hotel, at 11.30 a. m. Sunday, the 16th of 
February, we hired a large rowboat, through the 
porter of the hotel, and went aboard the P. & 
O. steamer Oriental, of 5300 tons, at 4 p. m., one 
mile out in the harbor. Made a bargain with the 
hotel porter for four rupees ($1.30), to get us and 
our baggage on board the steamer, including all 
tips, himself included, his men taking our seven 
pieces of luggage on their heads down to the 
landing and from there by boat to the steamer. 
Think for once we did not get robbed. We have 
one large three-berth cabin for us two, on port 
side, which will be the cool side. At 3.30 a. m., 
February 17, the Oriental sails for Hong Kong, 
via Penang and Singapore, taking the China and 
Japan mails. 

We round the southern end of the island of 
Ceylon and then take a straight easterly course for 



96 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

Penang, on line between the Bay of Bengal and 
the Indian Ocean. It is a fine large steamer, good 
accommodations and table. The skies are clear, 
the air soft and breezy enough to prevent being 
uncomfortable from the heat, the wind being a 
head wind, not following us, as it did down from 
Calcutta. We sit in our easy chairs on deck 
and bid adieu to the lovely island of Ceylon in 
the verse of Bishop Heber, although not sub- 
scribing to the sentiment of the fourth line: — 

" What though the spicy breezes 
Blow soft o'er Ceylon's isle, 
Where every prospect pleases 
And only man is vile. 

" In vain with lavish kindness, 
The gifts of God are strewn, 
The heathen in his blindness 
Bows down to wood and stone." 

We arrive at Penang on Friday, February 21, 
at 8.30 a. m., after an uneventful voyage over a 
sea as smooth as glass, as blue as indigo, well 
described by a writer thus : — 

" The Indian ocean just sits and smiles, 
So soft, so bright, so blooming blue ; 
With never a wave in sight for miles, 
Except from the jiggle of our screw." 

Anchored about one mile from the landing and 
could see the town plainly. It is on an island of 
the Malay Peninsula, and near are the great tin 



CEYLON AND SINGAPORE 97 

mines which give the name to " straits tin " and 
nearly supply the world with its tin. Weighed 
anchor and left Penang at 1 1 a. m. ; arrived at 
Singapore on Saturday, February 22, at 4 p. m. 
This being Washington's birthday, the fact was 
given due consideration by all the Americans on 
board, and all the proper formalities due to the 
occasion were arranged and carried out in the 
smoking-room, in which they were aided by the 
Englishmen O'Hagan and Bishop, and also by 
the captain. As the steamer is to stay at Singa- 
pore till the 23d, at noon, nearly all the first cabin 
passengers go ashore. 

Mr. and Mrs. Zahm, Mr. and Mrs. Colley, the 
two Misses Pevear of Lynn, Mass., with H. and 
myself, take carriages and drive some five miles 
to the botanical gardens, then to the Raffle Hotel 
for dinner at 7 p. m. The best residences are 
near the gardens, and on the water front near the 
hotel. These are large, commodious, and well 
built ; they comprise but a very small part of the 
city, which has a population of two hundred 
thousand, mostly Chinese, who live in Chinese 
fashion, in one and two story houses of wood, 
crowded together. 

The ground on which the city is located is 
but a few feet above the sea, and the drainage is 
very poor. This being the Chinese New Year, 
we decided to look over the city in the evening 



98 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

and witness the celebration and display of fire- 
works. After dinner we all took "rikshas," eight 
in all, each drawn by a Chinaman, all in line, one 
behind the other, and started out at a good fast 
trot. It was a novel experience for all of us. The 
display of fireworks and explosions of crackers 
were equal to ten Fourths of July in the United 
States. No horse would have stood the racket, but 
the Chinese coolies, each pulling a riksha, were, 
of course, perfectly safe, neither bolting, balking, 
nor running away, as a horse would have done ; 
they trod their way through the great crowds of 
Chinese, and around and over the tremendous ex- 
plosions of firecrackers, which, in some cases, were 
let down from the roofs in long strings and ropes, 
making an awful din and smoke, and spreading 
fire in all directions. 

At 10 p. m. we arrived at our steamer, having 
traversed some six miles of streets, the eight men 
drawing the eight rikshas never, during that time, 
breaking their trot, and traveling at a gait a horse 
would hardly equal. We found coal being put 
aboard our steamer by a long string of coolies, 
two carrying a basket of coal on a pole from a 
pile on the wharf to the steamer. In this way 
they put on about fifty tons an hour. As they 
kept it up all night, and our cabin was near the 
dumping-place, we found it not conducive to 
sleep. All the forenoon of the 23d the steamer 




BOTANICAL GARDENS. KAXDY, CEYLOX 



CEYLON AND SINGAPORE 99 

was loading cargo and unloading silver brought 
from the British mint at Bombay. Some of the 
cargo taken on was old dried seaweed for the 
Chinese at Hong Kong and Canton to eat. The 
odor of the seaweed would not commend it to 
any one accustomed to Leominster bills of fare. 

At 12, noon, we weighed anchor and passed 
out of the harbor of Singapore, winding around 
beautiful islands, green with tropical vegetation 
to the water's edge. This is the nearest we shall 
come to the equator, being about seventy miles 
north of it. The sail from Colombo to Singapore 
was over a smooth sea, deep blue in color. The 
wind, blowing steadily from the northeast (the 
northeast monsoon), made the temperature very 
pleasant to bear, not nearly as uncomfortable as 
the Red Sea or the Bay of Bengal ; on the whole 
the most pleasant voyage we have had. Existence 
on this earth knows nothing more healthful, more 
tranquil, more lazy, perhaps, than a trip on the 
Indian Ocean at the right time of the year. Sing- 
apore is under the British rule of the Malay Pen- 
insula, but has a sultan, who has a palace about 
four miles out of the city. It was stated that the 
king of Siam was present at the celebration of 
the Chinese New Year at Singapore. 

The passengers, as usual, divide up into 
cliques ; there are the Hoods, Scotch ; O'Hagan 
and Bishop, English ; Zahms and Brintons, 

L.0FC. 



ioo A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

Americans ; three young English ladies, three or 
four young Englishmen, and many other first 
cabin passengers. 

Some of the passengers are very intimate with 
each other for a while, then fall out and tell 
the other passengers what rude people their 
former friends are. Mr. A. taunts in the heat of 
• discussion the short and aristocratic O'Hagan 
upon his diminutive size, saying, " He did not see 
how he could see over the dining-table." Mr. 
O'Hagan does not answer, but tells us he con- 
siders Mr. A. very rude, and that if ladies had 
not been present, he would have slapped his face, 
which would have been a hard thing for him to 
do, as Mr. O'Hagan's head just comes up to the 
top of Mr. A.'s shoulder. Then Mr. B. and wife 
tell us privately of Mr. A.'s " selfishness ; " they 
have traveled together from Port Said, and it is 
a wonder they have not fallen out before, which 
they probably have done many times. 

Mr. O'Hagan tells H. and me that we are "all 
right," but as to A. and B. and C. and D., they 
are not, and that most Americans they have met 
are " always flaunting the American flag in their 
faces." February 22, H. put the little United 
States flag I gave him in Leominster into 
O'Hagan's pocket, and when he found it he said, 
" It was just like that Mr. A. to be up to such a 
trick." O'Hagan is a banker in London and 



CEYLON AND SINGAPORE 101 

travels with a valet. At his place in London he 
keeps seventeen horses, and he has a house on 
the Isle of Wight and another in the north of 
England. 

Flirtations go on quietly over the ship, here 
and there. H. and I are merely " lookers-on in 
Venice," not taking sides, making no very inti- 
mate friendships, joining in with no cliques. We 
try not to bore the other passengers with long 
stories of our private affairs, or pour into their 
unwilling ears tales of fancied slights, doing our 
best to keep out of a quarrel with any one — 
watching with interest the play of " Life on 
Shipboard." 

We found it not as hot at Singapore as at 
Bombay, Calcutta, or Colombo — very comfort- 
able day and night. By the night of February 23 
we have passed through the Straits of Malacca, 
and are taking a straight course for Hong Kong, 
east of north, up through the China Sea. 

At three o'clock on the morning of February 24, 
leaving my berth and cabin, I go up two flights 
of stairs to the upper deck, to see the Southern 
Cross. The passengers are asleep in their cabins. 
I step over dark-skinned servants asleep on the 
floor, with a pillow and blanket under them — 
nothing over them. All is still except the ma- 
chinery, which, turning and throbbing below, 
drives the ship, every hour of the twenty-four, 



102 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

onward towards the destined port. Through the 
open portholes I can faintly hear the howls and 
shrieks of the stokers, far below in that fiery fur- 
nace heat of 145 degrees, — Africans as black as 
the coal they handle, and with no covering except 
a cloth around the loins. The deck chairs are piled 
here and there, unoccupied. Forward, right at 
the point of the bow, is the lookout. On the 
bridge, which is at the forward end of the upper 
deck, and over it, paces back and forth the officer 
on duty, and as I go aft I see a junior officer there. 
In the north, and low down, is the familiar Dipper, 
pointing as ever towards the north star ; directly 
opposite in the south shine forth those bright 
stars forming the Southern Cross, the most bril- 
liant object in the sky ; before it the Dipper pales 
into insignificance. Over all the sea and the ship, 
the full moon casts a flood of silver light. 



CHAPTER VII 

CHINA 

Friday, February 28, at 8 a. m., we came in sight 
of Hong Kong bay and harbor. After breakfast 
every one was on deck looking at the shipping 
from every commercial nation of the globe. 
Many of the ships were almost hidden from view 
by the Chinese junks, unloading or loading car- 
goes from or into the ships. These junks were 
grotesque and ancient-looking things — high up 
astern, while the bows pitched downwards into the 
water. The great sails were made of finely woven 
matting. The harbor is a fine one, surrounded 
by high hills and mountains. The entrance is 
very narrow, and the whole can be easily de- 
fended. As we come to anchor in the bay the 
health officer comes aboard and the yellow flag 
of quarantine is hoisted. Then the passengers 
discover for the first time that there is a case of 
smallpox on board ; it had developed since leav- 
ing Singapore, in a native waiter or assistant in 
the kitchen and dining saloon. He had been 
isolated on board at once and the case kept 
quiet. The passengers are panic-stricken, and 



104 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

are afraid they will be kept on board several days. 
The sick man is taken ashore in a little tug-boat. 
Soon after we learn, to our great delight, that the 
first cabin passengers will go ashore at 12 noon. 
At that time all our baggage is put on a steam 
launch ; then the passengers scramble aboard and 
we are soon at the wharf. After seeing the last 
one of our eight pieces of baggage landed safely, 
we engage coolies, who take it on their heads, 
and we follow to the Hong Kong Hotel, and 
secure the last two rooms not engaged. 

Went immediately to the office of the Canadian 
Pacific Railroad Company in the hotel block, and 
met Herbert Carter, a Leominster boy, who has 
been here in the employ of the C. P. R. R. Co. 
three years. It is needless to say that we were 
glad to see each other, — it seemed to me that I 
was at last on the home stretch. Hong Kong is 
the terminus of the four American lines which 
cross the Pacific. Here we begin to see Ameri- 
can newspapers, fruits, vegetables, and meats, and 
last, but not least, some semblance of American 
cooking ; and, strange as it may seem, when we 
first set foot in China, that place we have always 
been taught to believe was exactly under our feet 
in the United States, we felt nearer home than 
when in Europe or Egypt : as though we had 
started on the downhill side of the globe and the 
United States was at the foot of it. Perhaps this 



CHINA 105 

feeling that we were getting near home may 
have been caused, in part, by the genial, smiling, 
hearty welcome we received from Friend Carter. 
He gave us a lot of information as to China 
and Japan, and helped us in getting tickets fixed, 
securing cabins, etc. He gave us a letter to the 
captain of the steamer on which we go to Canton. 
Hong Kong is on an island, and, including 
several hundred square miles on the mainland, is 
part of the British possessions and under British 
control. It is built on a narrow strip of land be- 
tween the harbor and the mountain, called the 
" Peak." There are many buildings far up the 
side of the mountain, one above the other, as far 
as it is possible to get a foothold. For this reason 
the city presents a fine view from the deck of a 
steamer. Although Hong Kong is called an 
English city, it is, like all cities in the Orient, 
composed mostly of natives, the native quarter 
far exceeding in extent the English or European 
quarter. But of course the foreigners are the 
traders and bankers ; the natives are " the hewers 
of wood and the drawers of water." We find the 
Hong Kong Hotel a good one and very pros- 
perous, especially the bar-room part of it, as 
the harbor is full of war vessels from all countries. 
The table is more American than anything we 
have encountered before. Baked beans are on 
the bill of fare. There is one dining-room for 



106 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

dress-suits and ladies and another for business 
men only, which we appreciate. 

Went to the post-office to mail a registered 
letter; there were ten or fifteen Chinamen wait- 
ing their turn at the opening in the railing. As 
soon as the official saw me, he reached over the 
railing and the heads of the waiting Chinamen 
and took my letter. A Chinaman, seeing this, 
held his letter up, but the official took no notice 
of him. This shows that Arabs, Indians, and 
Chinamen are considered to be of a lower grade 
of animals. In America every one would take 
his turn, no matter what grade, black or white 
or yellow. 

Saturday, March i. We went up to the top 
of the mountain back of Hong Kong called the 
" Peak." It is the highest of the range of hills 
and mountains back of and surrounding Hong 
Kong. These hills are not far back from the 
water, and very steep, leaving a narrow strip of 
land on which Hong Kong is built, so that there 
is no room for expansion in that direction. It is 
growing fast on the other side of the harbor, on 
the mainland, called Kowloon. We went up to 
within 200 feet, vertical, of the top, by cable car, 
then by sedan chair to the top, where is the flag- 
staff and signal station, 1400 feet above the water. 
The view is grand and beautiful, the fine bay and 
harbor below us, full of islands and of shipping 



CHINA 107 

from all the principal nations of the globe. On 
the other sides of the island we get a charming 
view of the sea. 

One day Carter kindly offered to take our 
photos in sedan chairs with his kodak. We en- 
gaged two chairs, with two coolies to each, and 
they started with us up the street by the Hong 
Kong Hotel towards where Carter was stationed, 
but when the coolies saw what was up, they 
dropped us and the chairs in the middle of the 
street and ran to the sidewalk, and no amount 
of money would induce them to take us up again. 
They are very superstitious, believing that to be 
photographed will bring them, by the means of 
evil spirits, bad luck. We succeeded, later, by a 
ruse, in getting some very good pictures in sedan 
chairs, mounted on the shoulders of Chinese 
coolies. This is a common way of conveyance 
here, especially over hilly roads. The two-wheeled 
rikshas are also largely used on the level roads. 
The easy, swaying motion of the sedan chairs is 
very agreeable, the gentle exercise in the open 
air is healthful and soothing ; it is an ideal con- 
veyance for an invalid. 

In company of Mr. Carter we crossed the bay 
to Kowloon, on the mainland, where are great 
dry-docks, ship-building and machine shops, and 
foundry establishments. On the way over we 
saw, for the first time since leaving Boston, the 



108 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

stars and stripes, hoisted on a United States gun- 
boat from Manila, and also on a four-masted 
schooner from Bath, Maine. The harbor was filled 
with magnificent specimens of naval architecture, 
with the gay-colored flags of all commercial nations 
floating over them. One of them was the Terrible, 
the most powerful of British battleships. But 
when we saw " Old Glory " waving over even such 
insignificant vessels, we would not, with all it 
represented and stood for, have exchanged the 
old flag for all of the others put together. We 
took off our hats to it ; we gazed at it as long as 
we could see it. Every fold in it, every star and 
stripe on it, was glorious in our eyes. We could 
understand, as never before, what enthusiasm it 
can awaken in the hearts of Americans in dis- 
tant lands, and how, in battle, it can be followed 
to certain death. 

On Monday, March 3, at 5.30 p. m., we took 
passage on a steamer for Canton, up the river 
about ninety miles. This city dates back to three 
hundred years before the Christian era. The 
steamer has very good cabins and accommoda- 
tions, and resembles, on a small scale, the Fall 
River steamers to New York. We came in sight 
of Canton next morning at 7 o'clock. We realize 
that we are in old China, the oldest existing gov- 
ernment on the earth. That we are in the domin- 
ions of, and subject to, the control of the emperor, 



CHINA 109 

the " Son of Heaven," and of the empress dowager, 
surrounded by millions of the heathen Chinee. 
There is a sense of insecurity that we do not feel 
in places under British control, like Cairo, Bom- 
bay, Calcutta, Colombo, or Singapore ; there we 
knew that within call, in solid stone barracks, 
were thousands of British soldiers, ready to put 
down any uprising of the dark races and to march 
to the succor of Europeans or Americans, if in 
distress. The sights on the river, as we approached 
Canton, were simply wonderful, like nothing I 
had ever seen before. Thousands of boats, sam- 
pans, Chinese junks, swarmed in every direction. 
They surrounded our steamer, at least six deep, as 
we came to the wharf, every one of the owners of 
these sampans expecting or hoping to get a job 
and a few cents from the few passengers on the 
steamer. They gesticulated, screamed, beckoned, 
and pulled at us. A porter on the steamer put us 
in charge of the proprietor of a sampan, who led 
us through the swarms of Chinese on the lower 
deck, out through the side, to a sampan, then to 
another and another, stumbling, being jostled, 
almost falling into the river, which we might 
have done had the boats not been so close to- 
gether. At one time H. had one foot in one boat 
and the other foot in another boat. They began 
to separate, and for a few minutes the outcome 
was uncertain. We finally came to the little cov- 



no A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

ered sampan that was the right one. Seating our- 
selves under the covered part, the two boatmen 
rowed us down the river, skillfully avoiding col- 
lisions with boats and steamers, three quarters of 
a mile to a landing on the island, where is the Vic- 
toria Hotel, to which we were going. The cap- 
tain of our sampan led the way to the hotel, some 
ten minutes' walk. There we learned from the 
proprietor of the hotel that our sampan captain 
was a Chinese woman, well known to tourists and 
residents here by the name of " Sally." Her 
charge for taking us in the sampan three quarters 
of a mile and guiding us to the hotel was the 
munificent sum of ten cents for both. Only Euro- 
peans and Americans live on this island, which 
is about sixty acres in area. It is separated from 
Canton by the river on one side and a canal on 
the other. Over this canal are several bridges, at 
which are gates and policemen, and no Chinese 
are allowed to pass to the island unless they have 
business there. All the residences of consuls of 
countries that are represented here are located on 
this island, and their respective flags are hoisted 
over them. We noticed with pleasure that the 
stars and stripes were just a little higher than 
any of the others. When we were at Darjeeling, 
India, we met a gentleman and lady from Phila- 
delphia, who were making the trip around the 
world in the opposite direction from the one we 



CHINA in 

were taking, and we were able to give each other 
much valuable information as to hotels, places 
to see, and guides. They gave me the name of 
a guide they employed in Canton, and recom- 
mended him highly ; it was Ah Cum & Son. So 
we sent for him and the son came. His card 
read, " Ah Cum John, third son of Ah Cum, Can- 
ton, guide, Victoria Hotel." He proved a good 
guide in showing us the sights of Canton and 
helped us in making purchases, on all of which 
he no doubt had a commission. Ah Cum John 
had his own sedan chair and two stalwart coolies 
for bearers. We had a chair and three coolies 
each. Crossing the bridge opposite the Victoria 
Hotel, we found ourselves in Canton. No words 
can adequately describe this city. It must be 
seen. We passed through the narrow streets and 
lanes, crowded with people on foot. Once in a 
while we met other sedan chairs in which were 
either tourists like ourselves or high dignitaries 
of the empire. In passing each other often one 
or the other would have to back into a shop to 
get by. It was wonderful to see how skillfully 
our bearers would avoid collisions with the people, 
or other chairs, especially in turning the corners 
of the very narrow streets. The streets we passed 
through on each side were lined with workshops 
and little stores, their fronts nearly hidden by 
gaudy strips of silk, covered with Chinese figures 



ii2 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

advertising the goods for sale. Canton is said to 
contain over two millions of people, and two 
hundred and fifty thousand of these to live in 
boats on the canal and river ; they and their 
children have never known any other home, 
neither have their forefathers, from whom they 
have inherited these boats. We saw in one place 
on the river what we estimated to be forty 
acres of these house-boats, all so close together 
that from where we stood, some fifty feet away, 
no water could be seen : it looked like a floating 
island. 

Canton seems like a bee-hive, and every bee 
at work. It is a very dirty city. The canal is full 
of filth — the accumulation of centuries — and 
yet people live on it, almost in it, using the water 
for all purposes. No wonder it is a breeding- 
place of cholera and the Asiatic plague. We 
learned before leaving Hong Kong, by the pa- 
pers and other reports, that the cholera was ra- 
ging in Canton, and that some Europeans had 
died of it, and many tourists were kept from 
going to Canton. Yet we took the chance, but 
were very careful not to drink water or milk, or 
even tea or coffee, or to eat uncooked food of 
any kind. 

Wednesday morning, March 5, we left Canton 
by steamer for Hong Kong. We saw thousands 
of acres of made land bordering the river. A 



CHINA 113 

mud wall is first built out into the river, inclos- 
ing a small area, and this is filled in with dirt. 
A few miles below Canton are two rows of piles 
driven across the river, connected with heavy 
iron chains, except in one place, where an open- 
ing is now left for the river boats to pass through. 
These piles and chains were placed across the 
river some years ago, when France and China 
were at war, to prevent the French war vessels 
from going up the river to Canton. They 
amounted to nothing as obstructions and were 
brushed away as if they were cobwebs, although 
they cost the Chinese government five hundred 
thousand dollars. Our steamer took on at Can- 
ton for Hong Kong many tons of live fish, raised 
by the Chinese in artificial ponds. These fish 
were about the size of a cod, and were trans- 
ported in large tanks, into which water was con- 
stantly pumped. On our steamer were seventeen 
hundred Chinese passengers for Hong Kong. 

Saturday. March 8, we sailed from Hons* 
Kong for Shanghai, China, and Kobe, Japan, 
on the steamer Hong Kong Maru, of about 7000 
tons, one of the three steamers owned bv the 
Japanese government running between Hong 
Kong and San Francisco. Our ticket gave us 
the choice of any one of three lines. We chose 
the Japanese because the boats are comparatively 
new and of modern build, having twin screws 



ii 4 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

and water-tight compartments, and bilge keels 
to prevent rolling. The captain is English, the 
first officer, purser, and doctor are Americans ; 
the other officers are Japanese, as are the cabin 
stewards and deck hands. The waiters and cooks 
are Chinese. We like the steamer, and especially 
the table, which is more American than any we 
have had. The captain and all the officers are 
especially pleasant and attentive; they do not put 
on the airs that prevailed on the English P. & O. 
steamers. At dinner we order what we choose 
and get through when we like ; not, as on the 
P. & O. steamers, wait for the slowest and last 
one to finish with the dish that is being served, 
when the bell strikes and the next dish is served, 
taking from one to one and a half hours for 
dinner each day; this is, to say the least, tedious 
to Americans who are used to making the most 
of time. In leaving the beautiful bay of Hong 
Kong we pass out at the opposite end to that at 
which we came in, thus making a circuit of the 
island on which the city stands. 

The Chinese have a high regard for commercial 
honor. They will keep their word in a business 
transaction, even if it brings to them heavy loss. 
At the new year every Chinaman is expected to 
pay up all his debts ; if unfortunate and unable 
to do so, then his relatives pay for him. If his 
relatives are unable to pay, then the unfortunate 



CHINA 115 

man commits hari-kari or suicide. All the for- 
eign merchants and the great banks and private 
families have a confidential Chinaman, called a 
" Compredor," who transacts all the business 
they may have with Chinese; and cases of 
these compredors being false to their trust are 
very rare. The opinion at Hong Kong, among 
Americans and foreigners, was that the best 
thing the United States could do with the Phi- 
lippines was to let the Chinese into that coun- 
try. The Chinese will work and won't fight; 
the Filipinos will fight and won't work. 

Monday, March 10, the Hong Kong Maru 
arrived at the mouth of the great river, the 
Yang-tse-Kiang, the largest river in China, drain- 
ing an immense territory, and serving, with its 
tributaries, as a channel for carrying an immense 
amount of freight and passenger traffic through 
the Chinese Empire. Where the river enters the 
China Sea it is so broad that no land can be 
seen, and the sea is discolored by the muddy 
waters of the river for many miles, resembling 
in this respect the Mississippi where it enters 
the Gulf of Mexico. After passing the bar at 
the entrance to the river, we went up the river 
some fifty miles and came to anchor ; then 
the health officer from Shanghai came aboard 
and took possession of the dining saloon. All 
the first cabin passengers were then gathered 



n6 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

together in a hurry by the stewards and the 
doctor, and passed in procession before the 
health officer, who gave each one a glance, and 
that was all. No sickness was found on board, 
so the yellow flag of quarantine was lowered 
and the passengers were allowed to go aboard 
the company's launch, which had been sent down 
from Shanghai, and go up the river Hwangpu, 
on which is Shanghai, and which is a tributary of 
the Yang-tse-Kiang, a distance of fourteen miles. 
We passed hundreds of Chinese junks and war 
vessels, the latter, crude affairs, high up astern, 
and with sails; they are used against the pirates 
who infest all of the rivers of China. We also 
passed three modern built gunboats or cruisers 
belonging to the Chinese ; also many war ves- 
sels of other nations, two of which flew the flag 
of the United States. 

We arrived at Shanghai at n, and went to 
the one principal hotel, the Astor House, for 
" tiffin," which means " lunch " in all countries 
of the Orient. From Egypt to Japan one never 
hears the word "lunch;" it is "tiffin." After 
tiffin we engaged rikshas and rode out over 
what is called the " bubbling well road " to the 
best residential quarter of the city. We saw a 
road sign marked " Pekin road," and other signs 
indicating roads leading to other well-known 
cities of the Celestial Empire. We inquired of 



CHINA 117 

our riksha men where the " bubbling well " was 
for which the road was named. We imagined a 
spring of pure, clear water, actually bubbling. 
As we had not drunk such water since leaving 
Leominster, we were anticipating a treat. What 
was our disappointment and disgust to be led up 
to a barrel, sunk in the ground, filled with a thick 
yellow substance they called "water" — too thick 
to run and without vitality enough even to bubble. 
Returned to the hotel by streets that took us 
through the native quarter of the city, which 
very much resembled Canton. The business 
part of the city, where are the foreign houses 
and banks, and the great docks, with vessels 
loading and unloading freight for and from all 
parts of the world, presents a busy and progres- 
sive aspect, much like Hong Kong, but lacking 
the bay and the harbor backed by the mountains, 
which make Hong Kong one of the most beau- 
tiful of seaports. A great business has been 
built up in Shanghai by English and American 
merchants. It is called the " New York of the 
Far East." 

At 4.30, in company with ten other passengers, 
we decided to return to the steamer instead of 
waiting till next day for the steam launch. We 
took passage on a train on one of the three rail- 
roads of China, fourteen miles long, owned by 
the imperial government. On the car was a 



n8 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

family of Chinese, two men, two women, and two 
young ladies (should judge they belonged to the 
" upper ten "). The young ladies were very richly 
dressed ; the gold bracelets on their wrists would 
weigh at least one pound each, and on their 
heads were magnificent braids and plaits of pearls, 
worth thousands of dollars. Two fingers on their 
left hands had nails an inch and a quarter long, 
while their feet were not over four inches in 
length. They were full of life and laughter, get- 
ting acquainted with the ladies of our party, look- 
ing over their dresses and ornaments with great 
curiosity, and carrying on at a great rate. They 
toddled up and down the car, making acquaint- 
ance with every one, while the older Chinese 
looked on, quietly amused. They had evidently 
taken the young ladies for a little " outing " on 
the railroad. At the end of the road, our party, 
consisting of eight ladies and four gentlemen, 
hired a Chinese junk and sailed down the three 
miles to our steamer, which we reached at 6 
p.m. The junk was manned by two sailors; it 
had an old-fashioned sail of matting. The boat 
was a very crude affair, and, like all Chinese 
junks, was built, at stern and forward, something 
on the centre-board plan. The water was very 
rough, and every time a wave hit the boat she 
shivered from stem to stern, and made a noise 
like thunder, and almost came to a stop. We 



CHINA 119 

were glad to reach our steamer, but had a hard 
time of it getting the ladies on to the ladder down 
the side of the ship. The junk would come up 
to the ship and then swing off, and the ladies 
would insist on jumping at the wrong time, when 
there was about four feet of water between the 
junk and the ship. It was my place, with one 
other, to place the ladies on the ladder, where was 
the first officer, ready to take them, H. and one 
other passing them up to us. One of the ladies 
weighed two hundred and fifty pounds. In pass- 
ing her over to the chief officer I missed my 
footing, came down on my knees, and looked 
down into the yellow water of the Yang-tse- 
Kiang. We were glad when we were all safely 
on board our steamer. We probably ran more 
risk on that Chinese junk than on all the seven 
ocean steamers on which we have been pas- 
sengers. 



CHAPTER VIII 

JAPAN 

Wednesday, March 12, the Hong Kong Maru 
weighed anchor and got under way at 1 1 a. m., 
steaming down the great river Yang-tse-Kiang, 
fifty miles, across the bar, and taking nearly a 
due east course for Nagasaki, Japan, across the 
Yellow Sea. Thursday, about 6 p. m., came to 
anchor in the beautiful harbor of Nagasaki. All 
the Chinese and Japanese were looked over by the 
health officer. Friday morning I was awakened 
by the noise of " coaling ship." On going on deck 
a sight was presented unequaled anywhere else 
in the world. The ship was surrounded by flat- 
bottomed boats or scows, each holding twenty 
or more tons of soft coal. These were covered, 
and also the ladders and platforms on the sides of 
the ship, by hundreds of Japs — mostly women 
and girls — who passed from one to another bas- 
kets of coal holding about twenty pounds, from the 
scows to the landing-place on deck, the baskets 
never stopping on the way. They worked like 
bees on a bunch of honey. Our steamer took on 
twelve hundred tons of coal, and to put this on 
there were twenty-two gangs of twenty-five each, 






JAPAN 121 

— some five or six hundred women and girls. 
They get ten to twenty cents in gold for ten 
hours' work. The cost of coaling up was about 
seventy-five dollars, which is cheaper than by any 
other method. Nagasaki holds the record of the 
world for quick coaling, and is the principal coal- 
ing port on the Pacific. Since writing the above 
I have read a description of this coaling ship at 
Nagasaki, by Rev. H. C. Potter, the bishop of 
New York, as follows : — 

" If I were asked to say, of all that I saw in 
Japan, what that is that lives most vividly in my 
memory, I should probably shock my artistic 
reader by saying that it was the loading of a 
steamship at Nagasaki with coal. The huge ves- 
sel, the Empress of Japan, was one morning sud- 
denly festooned — I can use no other word — 
from stem to stern on each side with a series of 
hanging platforms, the broadest near the base, 
strung together by ropes and ascending from the 
sampans, or huge boats in which coal has been 
brought alongside the steamer. There were, in 
each case, all along the sides of the ship, some 
four or five of these platforms, one above the 
other, on each of which stood a young girl. On 
board the sampans men were busy filling a long 
line of baskets, holding, I should think, each 
about two buckets of coal, and these were passed 
up from the sampans in a continuous and un- 



122 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

broken line until they reached their destination, 
each young girl, as she stood on her particular 
platform, passing, or, rather, almost throwing, 
these huge baskets of coal to the girl above her, 
and so on to the end. The rapidity, skill, and, 
above all, the rhythmic precision with which, for 
hours, this really tremendous task was performed, 
was an achievement which might well fill an 
American athlete with envy and dismay, each 
girl, by the watch, handling from sixty to sixty- 
nine baskets in a single minute. The task — I 
ought to call it an art, so neatly, simply and 
gracefully was it done — was this. The young 
girl stooped to her companion below her, seized 
from her uplifted hands a huge basket of coal, 
and then shooting her lithe arms upward tossed 
it laughingly to the girl above her in the ever- 
ascending chain, and all the while there was 
heard a clear rhythmical sound, like the notes from 
a mandolin, distinct, precise, melodious, produced 
by the lips of these young coal heavers them- 
selves. And at this task these young girls con- 
tinued uninterruptedly and blithely, from 10 in 
the morning until 4 o'clock in the afternoon, put- 
ting on board more than one thousand tons of 
coal. I am quite free to say that I do not believe 
that there is another body of work-folk in the 
world who could have performed the same task 
in the same time and with the same ease." 



JAPAN 123 

At 9.30 a. m. we went ashore on the company's 
launch, about one half mile, and set foot for the 
first time on the soil of old Japan. We had about 
three hours to look over the city. It has a popu- 
lation of about seventy thousand, mostly Japanese, 
some Chinese, and a very few whites. It has a fine 
dry-dock, and is the great coaling-place for 
steamers, the coal being mined in the vicinity. 
Nagasaki is finely situated, looking out on an 
excellent harbor, surrounded by hills, just now 
becoming green. The harbor is not as wide as 
Hong Kong harbor, but extends a long distance 
between high hills. The entrance is very narrow, 
and the whole is perfectly protected from storms. 
At the hotel at Nagasaki we saw some New 
York newspapers of February 9, the first Ameri- 
can newspapers we had seen at any hotel or news- 
stand since leaving home. 

Friday, at 4 p. m., we left Nagasaki for Kobe, 
a sail of twenty-eight hours through the celebrated 
Inland Sea of Japan, justly noted as one of the 
most beautiful, if not the most beautiful, seas of 
the world. It is a remarkable expanse of salt water, 
bounded on each side by scenery unsurpassed. 
The sea averages from one half to one and one 
half miles in width ; in one place it is only one 
quarter of a mile wide. It is full of turns and 
twists, and one continually wonders what the next 
turn will lead to. The banks rise high above the 



i2 4 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

water and the land is highly cultivated, even up 
to the top of the highest peaks. We continually 
pass peculiarly constructed junks, and the shores 
present a shifting panorama of little villages, 
with funny-shaped houses, castles, temples, and 
wooded slopes, seen nowhere else in the world. 
The scenery is something like the scenery on 
the Hudson River, but more picturesque, as the 
Inland Sea contains hundreds of islands and 
bare rocks, towering high up right in our path; 
and as they were unlighted at night it seemed to 
me very dangerous navigation. 

At 8 p. m., Saturday, March 15, we had passed 
through the Inland Sea and dropped anchor in the 
Bay of Kobe, a mile from shore. Sunday, at 9 a. m., 
we looked out on the fine harbor and bay and 
the city of Kobe, and on the shores of the bay, 
forming a semicircle, inclosed by high hills and 
mountains, and the harbor filled with shipping, 
vessels of commerce and of war. 

Here we leave our steamer and go through 
Japan to Yokohama by rail, some three hundred 
and fifty miles, letting our heavy baggage go 
through to Yokohama on the steamer, where we 
will get it in about two weeks. 

Kobe, Japan, has a population of two hundred 
thousand Japanese and one thousand foreigners, 
and is situated at the eastern entrance to the In- 
land Sea, the great water-way through which 



JAPAN 125 

passes the traffic between China, Japan, and 
America. Being connected by railways with all 
parts of the empire, Kobe is a city of great com- 
mercial importance, second only to Yokohama. 
A daily paper is printed in English. The Ori- 
ental Hotel is a very good one ; it is managed by 
Japanese ; rates seven yen per day, or $3.50 in 
gold. After lunch we take jinrikishas, or, as they 
are called for short, " rikshas," and look over the 
city, the shops, the streets, the temples, up on the 
mountain side. It seems like a dream to us. We 
can hardly realize that we are actually in the 
magic land of the Mikado, the land of temples, 
of flowers, of art, of dainty maidens, the Island 
Kingdom of Japan. Two miles out from Kobe 
are the Nunobiki waterfalls, — two falls of some 
175 feet in all; the water supplies the city of 
Kobe. From the top of the hill we had a fine view 
of the city and the harbor. Just at 3 o'clock we 
saw the Hong Kong Maru weigh anchor and 
slowly steam out to sea, for Yokohama. We had, 
as we always do have, a sort of feeling that our 
" home " was leaving us. W T e get attached to a 
ship, even if on it for only a few days. On the 
way back to our hotel we stopped at a private 
house, with small factory attached, where fine 
Satsuma ware was made. The proprietor and his 
two sons showed us the process and the ovens 
and some of the finished work, — one very fine 



126 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

piece that had taken a prize at the Paris Exposi- 
tion. They were very polite, giving us some tea 
and cakes. When they went into their private 
rooms from the factory, they took off their shoes 
and put on loose slippers. I said to them that 
" we ought to do the same," but they smilingly 
protested that we need not, which was a lucky 
thing for me, as I had boots that laced high up, 
and a hole in one stocking low down. As we left 
we made two low bows to each other, which is the 
correct thing to do, and if one wishes to be very 
polite, three bows are made, each bow lower than 
the one preceding, so that when three are made 
the head comes down nearly to the knees. There 
is no hand-shaking in Japan. We visited the 
Temple of Hiogo, where is a large bronze image 
of Buddha; also visited several other temples, 
none of which were very imposing. The Japanese 
we see on the streets are good-looking, well made, 
and have intelligent faces. Many of the women 
are quite pretty; they have good eyes, abundance 
of very black hair, and fine complexions, — a mix- 
ture of the olive and the rose. Some of the young 
girls and boys have very clear, fine complexions 
and expressive eyes. We see them marching to 
and from school with their teachers at the head. 
High up on the hillside are the Suwayama hot 
springs, where we had another magnificent view 
down over the city and harbor. At night, from 



JAPAN 127 

our hotel, the lights from the shipping in the har- 
bor and from the houses on the mountain side 
present a fine effect. 

Tuesday, at 10 a. m., we took train for Osaka, 
a city of six hundred thousand population, and a 
great manufacturing point. It is intersected by 
many canals. We rode through miles and miles 
of long narrow streets filled with people and lined 
with shops and dwellings, all low, unpainted 
wooden buildings, and all alike. After lunch, or 
tiffin, we took train for Nara, where we arrived 
at 4 p. m. As we were leaving the. train at Nara, 
whom should we see getting on but our old fel- 
low travelers, O'Hagan and Bishop, whom we had 
last seen at Hong Kong. Taking rikshas, we rode 
a mile from the station to the Kikushu Hotel. 
This is a real Japanese hotel or tea house, with 
only Japs to run it. We were met at the entrance 
by the wife of the proprietor and two or three 
pretty girls. They put loose slippers over our 
shoes, and, taking our baggage, led us over the 
shiny waxed floors up to our rooms, which were 
large and very neat, the floor covered with very 
pretty matting. For light there was one small 
glass window and two sliding doors opening out 
on to a veranda. These doors were covered with 
oiled paper, which let in almost as much light as 
glass. I could see to shave without artificial light. 
The ladies of the family all showed us into our 



128 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

rooms and seated themselves, chatting in Japa- 
nese, making themselves at home, putting the 
room in order, lighting a little charcoal in a box 
on a stool in the centre of the room, and offering 
us a tiny little pipe, with just a pinch of tobacco 
in it, which they lighted and drew a few whiffs to 
get it well agoing for us, all the time laughing and 
talking just as though we understood every word 
they said. We tried to keep up our end of the 
conversation, but in English. Of course, when 
talked to by pretty and vivacious young ladies, 
to be polite, we had to reply the best way we 
could and in the only language we were familiar 
with. The walls and ceilings of our rooms were 
of plain, unpainted wood, highly polished, all neat 
as wax. A roll of matting, twelve feet long, is let 
down in front of the bed, thus shutting it off. 

The house is regularly Japanese in style, with 
projecting roofs. The Japanese proprietor of the 
hotel brought us a book to sign, stating our 
names, ages, occupations, and residence. 

Nara contains many wonderful Buddhist tem- 
ples and parks. In one of the parks there were 
thousands of deer, so tame they would come up 
to us and eat out of our hands. They are con- 
sidered sacred by the people and are unmolested. 
The roads leading to the temples are wide and 
well kept, and on each side are thousands of large 
stone pillars, surmounted by votive lanterns. At 



JAPAN 129 

one of the largest temples there is a gigantic 
image of Buddha cast in bronze in the year 749, 
recast in 1200. It is a sitting figure, 58 feet high, 
70 feet in diameter, head 16 feet high, nose three 
feet long, ears five feet long. This figure has 
one hand outstretched as if to bless, while the 
other palm is up, as if to take the money con- 
tributed. This is the largest bronze figure of 
Buddha in Japan, and the largest casting in the 
world. At another temple we saw and rang a 
gigantic bell, 14 feet high, 9 feet in diameter, 
and 12 inches thick. This is rung by pulling 
back a stick of timber and letting it swing 
against the bell. It gives a low, melodious sound, 
like distant thunder, and can be heard for miles. 
Nara was once the capital of Japan and more 
flourishing than at the present time. It has 
about thirty thousand population and is not yet 
modernized. The Kikushu Hotel is the only one 
in the place except Japanese tea-houses, where 
one would have to eat in Japanese style, with 
chop-sticks and sitting on the floor. We were 
the only white guests at the hotel, and probably 
the only white people in the town. 

After a dinner of beefsteak and onions, new 
peas, and a splendid cup of Japan tea, we paid 
our hotel bill of five dollars in gold, each, for two 
days' board, and bidding good-by to the very 
pleasant people, took rikshas to station, and cars 



130 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

at i p. m. for Kyoto, which we reached at 2.30 
p. m. Went at once to the Kyoto Hotel, had two 
large, well-furnished rooms, with fire ; each room 
was 20 x 30 feet and proportionally high : rates 5 \ 
yen, or $2.75 in gold, each, per day. The hotel is 
back from the street, in a square by itself, with a 
small park in front, filled with ornamental trees, 
shrubs, and flowers. Kyoto has a population of 
three hundred and fifty thousand, and not one 
hundred white residents ; is about midway be- 
tween the oceans, and about in the centre of the 
principal island. It is inclosed on three sides by 
mountains ; on their slopes are no less than forty- 
five temples. Kyoto is noted for its fine and 
artistic work in Cloisonne, Damascene, and Sat- 
suma ware. The tourist can get finer work and 
at lower prices than in any other city in Japan, 
and tourists generally defer their purchases till 
reaching Kyoto. 

Thursday, March 20, took rikshas and rode all 
day through miles of streets, all level and straight 
and all alike. Went into many shops, shopping 
and sight-seeing. Unexpectedly had the plea- 
sure of meeting the Misses Pevear of Lynn and 
the Hoods of Edinburgh, Scotland, with whom 
we had traveled from Calcutta to Hong Kong. 

Friday we rode all day in rikshas, visiting tem- 
ples. One was the golden temple, gorgeous with 
gilt. In the park adjoining is a living pine-tree, 




GREAT BELL, NARA, JAPAN 



JAPAN 131 

trained and trimmed to represent a boat or junk, 
with mast and rudder; it is 25 feet long, and the 
mast is 25 feet tall. At another temple, the Chi- 
onin, is a bronze bell, one of the largest in the 
world. It is 18 feet high, 9 feet in diameter, 
and the metal is 12 inches thick; it weighs 100 
tons, exceeding the one at Nara, which it re- 
sembles ; it is rung in the same way, by swing- 
ing a timber against the outer rim. We passed 
the palace occupied by the emperor when here 
and the fortress nearby, all surrounded by a 
high stone wall 1 200 feet in length on each side. 
On the way I saw the most primitive power grist- 
mill. There was an overshot water-wheel, 10 feet 
in diameter and 12 inches wide, turning a hori- 
zontal wooden shaft, with projecting wooden 
pins, lifting alternately seven wooden timbers, 
which drop on to rice or other grain, grinding it 
into meal, which drops through small spaces in 
the bottom of a box. We visited the two tem- 
ples, called the " Hongwanjis," five hundred years 
old. One of the temples is gorgeous with gilt, 
which covers the immense pillars and the finely 
carved altars. Before entering these temples we 
were directed to take off our shoes and put on 
slippers. The slippers are provided by our rik- 
sha men, but in the case of two of the party 
their men had neglected to bring them, and they 
had to walk in their stocking-feet. At the house 



132 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

of the priest who has charge of these two tem- 
ples I saw what was to me the greatest sight 
I have seen or expect to see in Japan, — a rope 
5^ inches in diameter and 500 feet long, made 
from human hair, contributed by one and one- 
half millions of Japanese women, from eight 
provinces of Japan. The hair was given to make 
the rope to lift the heavy beams of the temple, 
as no other rope strong enough was to be had 
at the time the temple was built. We saw but 
one bale, but there are a number of bales. We 
can appreciate the sacrifice these Japanese women 
made of their magnificent heads of hair, which 
they prize so much and dress in such artistic 
style. 

The day we visited these temples was a Japa- 
nese holiday, and there were crowds of Japs on 
all the temple grounds ; many had evidently come 
long distances from the back country, for they 
stared at us in amazement. At one time we 
met some friends and stopped with them a few 
minutes ; before we realized the situation, there 
was a great crowd of men, women, and children 
around us, the women holding up the young 
children and babies to look at us, as though we 
were animals in a menagerie. For a joke I passed 
my hat around to the crowd, as though to take 
up a collection. This made them stare and crowd 
the more, evidently thinking it the way of for- 



JAPAN 133 

eigners. In Leominster to pass around the hat 
will disperse a crowd with lightning rapidity ; in 
Japan I found it worked differently. 

By Monday, March 24, we left the busy and 
interesting city of Kyoto and its great Buddhist 
temples, taking a train at 8 for Nagora, a place of 
two hundred and fifty thousand people, which we 
reached at 12.30. We found the Nagora Hotel 
very comfortable and extremely neat ; it is kept 
in half-Japanese style, — Japanese proprietor, 
waiters, and help. The main street is very long 
and wide, with wide sidewalks ; in the centre are 
two electric car tracks, the most modern street 
we have seen in China or Japan. In this street, 
on a slight elevation, is an elaborate and costly 
monument, erected to commemorate the victory 
of Japan over China in the late war. 

At 6 a. m. Tuesday we took train for Yoko- 
hama, where we arrived at 6 p. m. The country 
from Kyoto to Yokohama, three hundred and 
fifty miles, is cultivated like a garden ; there is no 
waste land, even the tops of the thatched roofs 
of the farm cottages being green with plants; 
every particle of fertilizing material is saved and 
put on the land in liquid form. At one little gar- 
den patch we saw a man treading an overshot 
water-wheel, the man treading the buckets one 
side, the water coming up the other and irrigat- 
ing the land. The wheat is planted in hills and 



134 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 



cultivated like corn ; every foot of land is made 
to produce something, and not a weed is allowed 
to show itself. Wood for fuel is planted and cul- 
tivated, the same as any other crop, and the law 
provides that for every tree cut another must be 
planted. Between Kyoto and Yokohama, three 
hundred and fifty miles, the agricultural popula- 
tion averages two thousand to the square mile, 
the most dense in the world ; these two thousand 
cultivate and depend upon the soil for a living. 
If Leominster had the same proportion of fami- 
lies living on farms, there would be fifty-three 
thousand farmers, including their families, in 
Leominster, whose existence would depend on 
what they could make the land produce. These 
figures make it plain why there is such a struggle 
for existence in the far East, and why, in the 
United States, there is such an abundance, such 
a prodigal lavishness of every necessity, and even 
of the so-called luxuries of life. For one, I have 
come to the belief that a very rapid growth of 
the United States is undesirable, in view of the 
possible results in the future. Immigration should 
be restricted and guarded in the most stringent 
manner. 

The ride from Nagora to Yokohama was full of 
interesting sights, for a while skirting the shores 
of the inlets and bays of the sea, then plunging 
into the hills, winding around mountains, climb- 



JAPAN 135 

ing and descending. At Yokohama we find the 
Grand Hotel first class in every respect. The 
manager is an American, a native of the State of 
Maine. Yokohama has a population of one hun- 
dred and eighty thousand. It is the largest treaty 
port in Japan, and a city of large commercial im- 
portance, and is the port for Tokyo, the capital ; 
it has a good harbor, protected by a breakwater. 
The part of the city occupied by the foreign resi- 
dents resembles an American city, — wide, clean 
streets, large, open squares, brick and stone 
blocks. A wide canal divides the city, through 
which the heavy freight from the warehouses is 
taken to the ships in the harbor and from the 
ships to the warehouses. Very few horses are 
used, either for hauling goods or driving; the 
old familiar riksha is the common mode of con- 
veyance. A string of them is in front of the hotel 
all the time, their number and " Grand Hotel" on 
the caps of the men ; one has only to hold up a 
hand and they will race to him as if a fortune 
awaited them. In a jiffy one is on his way ; it is 
an easy, quick, cheap way of getting around. We 
like them and shall be sorry to part with them. 
These riksha men will make fifty miles a day, but 
the roads here are perfect, better than Massa- 
chusetts state roads, and are kept all the time in 
perfect condition. There is nothing in Yoko- 
hama distinctively Japanese, no great Buddhist 



i 3 6 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

temples, no great bronze figures or bells, the 
wonder of the world, no artistic workshops. All 
fine ware, ivory, and works of art are brought 
here from such producing places as Kyoto, Na- 
gora, and Tokyo, and prices are much higher 
and selections poorer. At Arthur & Bond's great 
shop I saw three large bronze castings of Bud- 
dha and a large bronze bowl, all heavily covered 
with gold and very valuable ; these came from the 
" Temple of Heaven," Pekin, China, — probably 
" loot." Every tourist in Yokohama goes once to 
a theatre and once to a geisha girl dance ; the 
latter is not what we would call a dance ; it is 
made up of graceful movements of the body, 
head, and arms, each girl manipulating a large 
fan dexterously and gracefully, all in time to the 
music. It is a very modest performance, com- 
pared to the short skirt dances on the stage of 
American theatres. 

The theatre we attended had a revolving stage, 
no curtain or drop scene. When a scene was to 
be changed, the stage was revolved till the right 
scene was brought into view. The ladies and 
gentlemen of the audience sat cross-legged on the 
floor of the boxes, smoking cigarettes and drink- 
ing tea. If the exigencies of the play required, 
the actors would come down into the auditorium, 
even to the front of the theatre, and disappear, to 
emerge on the stage later. The principal actor cut 



JAPAN 137 

off the head of his wife in a fit of jealousy and 
held the dismembered head up to the view of the 
audience, while an attendant threw a blanket over 
the body, which hobbled off the stage on all fours. 
While we were in Yokohama the most celebrated 
actor of Japan was performing at the principal 
theatre. We did not go, for the reason that the 
play lasted all day, and it was uncertain just what 
time this great actor would appear, whether just 
after breakfast, or just before tiffin, or late in the 
afternoon ; to be sure of seeing him we should 
have had to spend the whole day in the theatre 
and take our lunch with us. 

April 3 we took train for Tokyo, the capital of 
Japan, a city of fifteen hundred thousand inhab- 
itants, the largest in Japan ; it is twenty-five miles 
from Yokohama. 

The railways of Japan compare favorably with 
those of Europe or India. The speed of the trains 
is about the same, averaging twenty-five miles an 
hour. This speed, coupled with the extreme care 
in running trains and guarding the safety of pas- 
sengers on trains and at stations, makes the loss 
of life by railway accidents in the above-mentioned 
countries very small, compared to what it is in 
the United States. A traveler has a sense of se- 
curity that he does not feel in the latter country, 
where the railroads are crowded with trains to the 
utmost limit they will bear, and run at terrific 



M8 a trip around the world 



speed across roads at grade, and where at stations 
passengers are allowed to stand close to the track 
while trains are passing. Some of the passenger 
cars on the railways of Japan have compartments 
and doors on the sides, like the European cars, but 
many are patterned after our American cars, with 
doors at the end, but are shorter than ours, much 
resembling our largest and most modern electric 
cars; some have seats across and some lengthwise 
of the car, all upholstered in leather. There are 
no restaurants at the stations, but at certain ones 
a Jap comes into the car with dainty little baskets 
containing lunch, with a small bottle of wine or, 
if one prefers, a pot of hot tea. 

At Tokyo we went to the Imperial Hotel. It 
is equal to the Grand Hotel of Yokohama, and in 
some respects better. The building is very large, 
and is divided into two parts, one for Japanese 
guests solely, and the other for European or 
American guests. The city of Tokyo covers an 
area of one hundred square miles, contains two 
hundred and twenty thousand houses, and not less 
than three thousand temples. It has steam and 
horse railways, and is building an elevated road, to 
be run by electricity. There are electric lights and 
telephones. The houses are nearly all only two 
stories, unpainted. At the first opportunity we 
called upon Colonel Buck, the United States 
Minister to Japan. He received us very cordially 







JINRIKISHAS AND CHER] 




MLOSSOMS, YOKOHAMA PARK 



JAPAN 139 

and hospitably, and informed us that our names 
were on his list to attend the annual reception or 
garden party of the emperor. I had previously 
written Colonel Buck from Hong Kong in refer- 
ence to a ticket of admission to the famous annual 
garden party of the Mikado. 

In Tokyo we visited many temples and parks. 
The Shiba temple is the finest in Tokyo ; here 
are the tombs of the Shoguns, the ancient rulers 
of Japan. The wood carvings in this temple are 
magnificent, taking the labor of skilled workmen 
for a great many years ; much of the wood, and 
even the stone carvings, are covered with gold 
lacquer. In Uyeno Park are the national museum 
and the zoological garden, of great interest and 
worthy of any country. The museum is filled with 
specimens of plants, minerals, and animals. The 
zoological garden has many fine specimens of 
living fish, birds, and beasts. On the way to the 
museum we passed by the emperor's palace and 
through the gardens ; the palace grounds are 
walled in, and also surrounded by an ancient moat 
filled with water. This moat or canal is at least 
200 feet wide, and miles in length ; the banks are 
cut and graded to a smooth finish, and it is an 
ornament to the landscape, although some parts 
of it are used as a canal for transporting boats. 

On the afternoon of the 5th we rode in rikshas 
to the famous avenue of cherry-trees, now in full 



140 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

bloom ; it is some two miles long, on the banks 
of the river. Leaving our rikshas at the avenue, 
as they are not allowed upon it, the crowd being 
so great, we walked up a mile under trees in full 
blossom, with no leaves. The crowd of men, wo- 
men, and children was so great that those going 
one way were kept on one side of the avenue ; 
everybody passes on the left in Japan. The trees 
on each side, overlooking the Sumida River, were 
full of blossoms. The people seem to go crazy 
over the cherry blossoms, but I think I have seen, 
in May, as fine a show in the apple orchards of 
Leominster. In walking up and back on the ave- 
nue we passed ten thousand people, — perhaps 
three who were a little the worse for sake; all the 
rest were well behaved, nicely clothed, and having 
a jolly good time. We were the only white persons 
in the crowxl, and were stared at immensely. We 
have decided that if we should get short of money, 
we could obtain enough to get home by exhibit- 
ing ourselves at a small price of admission. 

On Sunday, the 6th, there was a shock of 
earthquake which shook the Imperial Hotel and 
made the chandeliers in the dining-room vibrate. 
We have felt several shocks in Japan before ; 
they are a common occurrence. 

Near the Imperial Hotel, Tokyo, an elevated 
street railway is being constructed, the motive 
power to be electricity. The piers are made of 






JAPAN 141 

brick. Walking out from the hotel to see how 
Japs did such kind of work, I noticed that all the 
mortar and bricks were carried to the bricklayers 
by women, — put into cloth and slung on their 
backs. I noticed one woman who had a young 
nursing baby; an older child took charge of it 
while the mother piled on her own back thirty- 
one bricks and carried them two hundred yards 
to the masons. These bricks were eight inches 
by four inches by two inches, and the load would 
weigh about one hundred and fifty pounds. I 
saw a pile-driver being worked by twenty-five 
women, who pulled the weight up by ropes, all to 
the music of their own voices. The one man in 
the gang was stationed at the top, and when the 
heavy iron weight was hoisted up by the women, 
he let it drop. 

One evening a great dinner was given at the 
hotel in honor of a member of one of the noted 
families of Tokyo, and we had a good chance to 
see the ladies and gentlemen of the "upper ten" 
of Tokyo as they came in and departed. As 
they entered the hotel all left their wooden-soled 
shoes at the entrance and put on fancy slippers, 
and as they left they made two or three low bows 
to each other. All were very polite. The ladies 
were very quiet, and their faces showed refine- 
ment ; some were very pretty. Outside, in the 
hotel yard, were one hundred and fifty rikshas, a 



142 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 



man to each, waiting to take the people home. 
As the company left the hotel, at the entrance 
stood two men, whom I had to call Americans. 
They stood close to the departing guests and 
stared rudely in their faces. I was ashamed of 
their manners in contrast with the Japanese, who 
were too polite to appear to notice their rudeness. 
At the Imperial we met Lord Helmsley, whom 
we had last seen in Ceylon. One day we visited 
the district court, which was in session trying a 
criminal case. It was held in a large hall. There 
were six judges, in caps and gowns ; the lawyers 
had caps and gowns, and lace collars over their 
shoulders. There were at least two hundred 
spectators, and I have no hesitation in saying 
that their appearance and behavior were superior 
in every respect to any crowd that would gather 
in Boston or any other large city of the United 
States out of curiosity to see the trial of a crim- 
inal case. Visited the stock exchange room, but 
the exchange was not in session. The room was 
large, and well adapted to the transaction of busi- 
ness. Called again on Colonel Buck, the Amer- 
ican minister ; had a very cordial reception ; was 
disappointed to learn from him that the Mikado's 
reception will not take place till after the 16th of 
April, which will be too late for me, as our 
steamer sails from Yokohama for San Francisco 
April 15. 



JAPAN 143 

Wednesday, April 9, we left Tokyo at 8.45 for 
Miyanoshita, arriving at 1.30 p. m., — two hours 
by steam railway, one and a half hours by elec- 
trics, and one and a half hours by rikshas. We 
left the steam-cars at Kodzu and there took the 
tram-cars, which consisted of first, second, and 
third class cars. The five miles of road are laid 
nearly all the way through streets of Japanese 
villages, through which the train went very slowly 
and carefully. If the motorman saw children 
anywhere near the track, he would bring the car 
almost to a stop, motioning to the children to go 
farther away. This is slightly different from the 
furious way the cars go down Merriam Avenue 
in Leominster, past School and Church streets, 
reckless of life and limb. At the end of the 
street railway we took rikshas, three men to each, 
a steep up-grade all the way for five miles, taking 
one and a half hours, rising 1400 feet, following 
a deep gorge or valley, at the head of which is 
the Fujiya Hotel, commanding a magnificent 
view of the Pacific Ocean. On each side the 
mountains rise to a height of 1000 feet above 
the hotel, which is 1400 feet above the sea-level. 
We find the hotel a very good one ; it is one of 
the most famous mountain resorts in Japan, and 
is owned and managed by Japanese. The wait- 
ers in the dining-room and the girls who take care 
of the rooms are pretty, daintily clad Japanese. 



144 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 



They build the fires and black our boots. Near 
the hotel are hot springs. The water is at a 
temperature of 150 degrees, and is piped into 
the bath-rooms. We see the water falling down 
the sides of the mountains, steaming all the way. 
From the top of the mountains, near the hotel, 
one gets a magnificent view of the. sea on the 
one hand, and on the other the mountains, with 
Japan's great volcano, Fujiyama, in the distance. 
From the top of the mountain, looking down 
upon the picturesque Japanese hotel, nestled in 
shrubbery and flowers, with the beautiful view 
down the valley, it seemed to us that some time 
an earthquake, to which this country is subject, 
might bring the two mountains on each side of 
the gorge together, and crush the hotel and little 
Japanese village like an eggshell. Above the 
hotel the little villages straggle up the valley in 
a most picturesque and curious way, the little 
cottages covered with flowers, the cherry-trees in 
the gardens in full bloom ; the road crossing the 
narrow stream on curious little bridges, here and 
there a water-wheel furnishing the power which 
lifts the timbers that pound the rice into flour. 
We see no beggars here, — nor anywhere else in 
Japan, — no one chases us around for a job, nor 
do they stand in our way, waiting for a tip. In 
taking a walk from the hotel I passed a pretty 
little Japanese boy about eight years old and gave 



JAPAN 145 

him a few sen — perhaps two cents. In about an 
hour, when we came back, we found him stand- 
ing by the road waiting for us with a little bunch 
of violets, which he timidly gave me and then 
ran awav. 

The air here is pure and invigorating, and we 
are not afraid to drink the water when we see it 
coming out of the rocks in the side of the hills. 
After two days' stay at Miyanoshita we returned 
to Yokohama. On the way we had a fine view 
of the volcano Fujiyama, 13,000 feet above the 
sea-level ; the summit is covered with snow, and 
a cloud of smoke and steam always floats over 
it, as it is an active volcano ; it is the highest 
mountain in Japan. 

Friday we arrive at Yokohama, and Tuesday, 
April 15, we sail on the Nippon Maru for San 
Francisco, completing our trip of nearly five 
weeks through Japan. The Nippon Maru is the 
exact counterpart of the steamer Hong Kong 
Maru, which we were on from Hong Kong to 
Kobe. We leave Japan with many regrets. The 
country is pleasing and novel, and like a garden 
in its cultivation. The people are very bright, 
intelligent, orderly, and enterprising ; they are a 
happy, progressive, temperate people, very neat 
in their clothing and houses ; in fact, they almost 
worship neatness and water. As to the religious 
belief of the Japanese of to-day, I never found 



146 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

out just what it is ; but whatever it may be, it 
seems to make industrious, progressive, polite 
men and patient women, with sweet dispositions 
and charming manners. 

The Japanese are far ahead of the natives of 
Egypt or India, and are close up to Americans 
and English, and nearly all of their present ad- 
vancement has been accomplished in the last 
fifty years. Their ambition is to be the United 
States of the East, and we get more news of the 
United States in their newspapers than in any 
others we have seen since we left home. In one 
respect the Japanese are not so far advanced as 
the Chinese. In China the merchant and manu- 
facturer are considered in the upper class, next to 
the mandarins, and so the pride of the Chinese 
merchant or banker tends to make him regard 
his word in a business transaction as sacred. In 
Japan the merchant and manufacturer are placed 
in the lower strata of society, next to the very 
lowest. This tends to the lowering of their ideas 
as to commercial honor. It will probably be 
remedied in the future by such a go-ahead and 
shrewd nation as Japan. 

Monday evening we received a call in our 
room at the hotel from O'Hagan and Bishop, — 
a parting visit, as we sail Tuesday for San Fran- 
cisco and they for Vancouver. They, like all the 
English, are hurrying to get to London in time 



JAPAN 147 

for the coronation of the king. As we all sit by 
the open fire in our cosy room, we go over the 
events of our trip from Port Said to Yokohama 
— off and on together — and wonder if we shall 
ever meet again in any part of the wide world. 

For Englishmen, they are very ready to give or 
take a joke. As they were to take their first trip 
across the United States, I put on a very serious 
face and advised them, if their train should 
come to a stop away from a station and in the 
midst of the " wild and woolly West," not to 
put their heads out of the car windows, but to lie 
down under the seats, for it would probably be a 
hold-up by train robbers, and they always shoot 
at any head in sight. " Ah," says O'Hagan, 
" would it be any harrm if I should myself shoot 
a station agent once in a while ? " 

Tuesday, April 15, from the Grand Hotel, Yo- 
kohama, to the wharf, where we take the launch 
and steamer, we take our last ride in a riksha; 
we bid farewell to it, perhaps forever, no more 
to enjoy the exhilaration and the novelty of the 
camels of Egypt, the bullock teams of India, the 
elephants of Ceylon, the sedan chairs of China, 
nor the rikshas of Japan. In the future it will 
be the everyday, ordinary, prosy " horse." 

As we sit in the launch at the wharf, up comes 
a boat alongside, with marines in it. As soon 
as the boat touches the wharf, they are ashore. 



148 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

The business being done, perhaps the leaving 
and getting mail or orders, they are off in no 
time. Who are these men, so alert, with such a 
bright and independent look in their faces, and 
yet so ready and quick to do the thing to be done? 
We have seen none just like them in our journey 
around the world. These men have not the sub- 
dued, third-class look, with the sense of inferior- 
ity, and the lazy, perfunctory way of doing things, 
that we have seen in the marines and soldiers of 
most of the countries through which we have 
traveled. But what is that name on their caps ? 
" Kentucky." That answers the problem ; they 
are United States marines and junior officers from 
the battleship Kentucky, at anchor out in the 
harbor. The impulse came over us to go aboard 
that boat and shake the hand of each and every 
one of those fellows and say, " How are you, 
boys ? " and invite them to the hotel to the best 
viands it afforded ; but neither time, nor disci- 
pline on Uncle Sam's craft, would permit. 

At 12.15 the Nippon Maru steamed out of the 
harbor of Yokohama, through Tokyo Bay, into 
the broad Pacific, taking an easterly course for 
Honolulu, four thousand miles, pointing at last 
homeward to America. As we steamed slowly 
out of the harbor, we passed near to the Ken- 
tucky; we waved our handkerchiefs and got a 
signal in return. We were proud to see our 




ONE OF TH 




IKS,. KYOTO 



JAPAN 149 

flag hoisted over such a magnificent battleship. 
It seemed to us that she was the perfection of 
naval beauty and strength, and that the big guns 
which pointed out from the sides of her turrets 
meant defense and protection, but not aggres- 
sion ; defense of that country that we were proud 
to call ours, and of its institutions, and protec- 
tion to its ocean commerce. Why should not 
her navy equal that of any other nation, and why 
should not the smoke of the steamers that carry 
that commerce darken the horizon of every sea ? 



CHAPTER IX 

THE PACIFIC OCEAN AND HONOLULU 

The voyage from Yokohama to Honolulu usu- 
ally takes from eleven to thirteen days. We find 
the Nippon Maru a fine steamer, being 440 feet 
long and 50 feet in breadth, with a depth of 33 
feet; tonnage 6000 tons; propelled by twin 
screws, power being furnished through two sets 
of triple expansion engines. The cabins are on 
the bridge and main decks. On the bridge deck 
is a large social parlor and library. There is a 
gentlemen's smoking-room. The ship is lighted 
by electricity, has a complete refrigerating plant, 
and numerous bath-rooms. She has water-tight 
compartments, independent of each other, so that 
an accident to the hull does not affect the safety 
of the vessel. We find on board many old ac- 
quaintances whom we have met in different parts 
of the world. Some who were on the Caledonia 
from Port Said to Bombay ; some who were on 
the Formosa from Calcutta to Colombo, on the 
Oriental from Colombo to Hong Kong, and on 
the Hong Kong Maru. It seems like a family 
reunion. Many of the first cabin passengers 
are Americans, and we are all looking forward 






PACIFIC OCEAN — HONOLULU 151 

to that happy time when we shall have passed 
safely through the Golden Gate and registered 
at the Palace Hotel, having escaped from the 
corral on the wharf, and left the dreaded San 
Francisco custom-house behind. At table we 
are very fortunate in being placed with Mr. 
and Mrs. Van Noorden of London, England, 
and Mr. and Mrs. Andreas, from Sydney, Aus- 
tralia, — young and agreeable people whom we 
had met before. All seemed to try to make 
the time pass as pleasantly and as quickly as 
possible on the long passage of seventeen or 
eighteen days from Yokohama to San Francisco. 
On board are passengers from nearly every coun- 
try in the world, — from America, Canada, Aus- 
tralia, China, Japan, England, France, Italy, Ger- 
many, Norway, Sweden, and Switzerland. 

On Monday, April 21, we crossed the 180 
degree meridian. This day we lived over twice, 
going to bed Monday night and rising Monday 
morning. All vessels going east, when crossing 
this meridian, are put back a day, and all going 
west are put ahead a day, which makes the cal- 
endar right, for in going around the world to the 
east a day is gained, and in going to the west a 
day is lost, as measured by the sun. 

The monotony of the long days at sea is 
broken by games and tournaments on deck, 
such as shuffle-board, pitching rings into buckets, 



152 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 



pitching canvas bags filled with rice on to a 
board marked off by numbers, golf, potato races, 
thread and needle races, egg and cracker races, 
egg and spoon races, three-legged races, whistling 
races, obstacle races, t ug-of- war, — with prizes 
for the winners in each. Evenings there are 
dances on deck, and in the saloon lectures or 
musical entertainments. The days slip away one 
by one, and at last, on April 24, at 6 a. m., 
we come in sight of Honolulu, ten days from 
Yokohama. 

Here leave us a flock of sea-birds which have 
followed the ship all the way from Yokohama (four 
thousand miles), keeping up with the steamer 
for ten days, and never resting, except upon the 
water, the time lost in such rest being made up 
later; they would overtake the steamer going fit 
teen miles an hour and often against a head wind 
of fifteen miles an hour. They are about the size 
of the sea-gull, but with longer wings and darker 
color. They are a species of the "frigate" or 
" man-of-war " bird. They live upon the refuse 
thrown overboard from the ship. Their power of 
flight is wonderful. I have watched them follow 
the ship, with graceful curves, now dipping into 
the water, now soaring aloft, falling behind al- 
most out of sight, then, without any apparent 
effort, overtaking us, often without the visible 
movement of a wing, against a strong head wind. 



PACIFIC OCEAN — HONOLULU 153 

Thursday, April 24, we arrived at Honolulu at 
6 a. m., but were not allowed to come to the 
wharf till 12, as a Chinaman had died on the 
passage and a post-mortem examination was made 
to ascertain if he had died of a contagious disease. 
It was decided that the cause of death was pneu- 
monia. At last the impatient passengers were 
allowed to land. Our intention was to call at 
once upon Mr. C. H. Merriam, a native of Fitch- 
burg, Mass., and well known in Leominster, who 
has been a resident of Honolulu for two years, 
but it being near lunch time, we took a horse-car 
to the Moana Hotel, some four miles out on the 
beach. On the way we passed many beautiful 
residences, bordered by magnificent hedges, in- 
closing groves of cocoanuts, bananas, and palms. 
The whole landscape and the soft air brought to 
our mind Ceylon more than any other place we 
had visited. The Moana Hotel has recently been 
erected, has all modern appliances, and compares 
favorably with any beach hotel in America. It 
is situated on Waikiki beach, and commands a 
magnificent view over the ocean. The large din- 
ing-room projects over the water. As we look 
over the dining-hall, we see many passengers 
from the Nippon Maru, who have come to the 
hotel for a change from the steamer fare, and 
then intend to do the city of Honolulu as thor- 
oughly as possible before 12 midnight, when our 



154 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

steamer sails. On Waikiki beach, Honolulu's 
principal suburb, the maximum temperature dur- 
ing the year is 89 degrees and the minimum 56, 
the average being 72, varying not over four de- 
grees in twenty years. The sea water registers 
from 74 to j8 degrees the year round. 

While at lunch we were agreeably surprised to 
receive a telephone message from Mr. Merriam, 
who had located us by telephoning to the steamer 
and finding that we were passengers, and then 
telephoning to various hotels. After lunch, as 
we stood on the porch of the hotel, up drove 
Merriam with a spanking pair of horses and open 
barouche. His greeting was enthusiastic. He 
placed around our hats and his own, wreaths of 
flowers called "Lei," — a solid mass of blossoms. 
This is a custom of the islanders on meeting or 
parting with friends. As we shook hands and 
looked into each others' faces, I could hardly 
realize where I was or where I had been. 

From the hotel Mr. Merriam drove us to Dia- 
mond Head, a high point at the end of the island, 
overlooking the sea, then to Kapiolani Park, the 
Pali, Mt. Tantalus, and the Punchbowl, the latter 
the crater of an extinct volcano. These points 
are all reached by fine broad roads, and afford 
glorious views of the city and ocean. The Pali is 
six miles from Honolulu, about halfway across the 
island, at an elevation of 1000 feet above the sea. 



. 



PACIFIC OCEAN — HONOLULU 155 

Here we can see the ocean on both sides of the 
island. On one side is a precipice of 600 feet 
vertical. Over this place it was that, in 1795, 
Kamehameha, the " Great," drove the army of 
his enemy, who had made their last stand and 
preferred death to surrender. Their bones can 
still be seen at the foot of the cliff. At this point 
the wind sucks through with such fury that we 
had to put our hats under the seat of the carriage 
and even hold on to our hair; bald heads were at 
a premium. 

After dinner at the fine Hawaii Hotel, we all 
took electric car and went up a very steep, wind- 
ing road to Pacific Heights, from which place 
we had another magnificent view of the city and 
ocean, this time by moonlight. The city and the 
road by which we came were brilliantly lighted 
by thousands of electric lights. At the top there 
was just a little level piece of ground, bordered 
on all sides by a precipice ; we hardly dared to 
move. It was a weird and fearful place. We 
seemed to be in the clouds, connected with the 
city only by the curving line of electric lights 
which marked the tram-road by which we came 
up. We were glad to step off the car and once 
more tread the solid ground of Honolulu's streets. 

Honolulu has a population of forty-five thou- 
sand. All the great Pacific liners, except those 
of the Canadian Pacific, call at this port. It has 



156 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

many fine substantial blocks, and the streets are 
well laid out and paved, with sewers in them. A 
well-equipped trolley line runs through the entire 
city, and another ascends Pacific Heights. I was 
much pleased with the city, and should like at 
some future time to spend a few weeks here and 
on the islands. Mr. Merriam showed us great 
attention. We were greatly indebted to him for 
his kindness, and appreciated it fully. It was one 
of the most enjoyable day's outings we have had 
since leaving Boston on October 19. Mr. Mer- 
riam drove us to our steamer at 1 1 p. m., filling 
our cabins with ripe, luscious fruits of the island. 
We were the envy of all the other passengers, 
with the brilliant fragrant wreaths around our 
hats and our free rides around the city, while they 
were all charged exorbitant rates for carriages. 

At 12 midnight the last belated passenger 
came slowly and with difficulty up the gangplank 
aboard the steamer, which immediately swung 
away from the wharf and got under way. The 
black smoke poured out of the big funnels. The 
twin screws slowly revolved and the machinery 
once more breathed and moved, not to stop again, 
we hoped, till the Golden Gate was reached. 
Slowly the steamer passed out of the harbor 
and rounded Diamond Head. One by one the 
lights of Honolulu faded away in the distance 
and we were again on the broad ocean, the 



PACIFIC OCEAN — HONOLULU 157 

next land the Golden Gate, the next port San 
Francisco; and as, at 1 o'clock, I, the last pas- 
senger on deck, turned to go to my cabin, I felt 
that at last our long journey by sea and land, 
around the world, was nearing the end. 

On shipboard it is not always a life of careless 
pleasure — sitting in easy-chairs on deck, in the 
sunshine, breathing the soft pure air, or taking 
part in games, dances, music, or other entertain- 
ments. Two days out from Honolulu, at 9 o'clock 
in the evening, the dread sound of the fire-bell 
and whistle was heard. Instantly all was turmoil 
on board. We were facing a strong wind of 
twenty-five miles an hour, and there was the 
worst sea we had experienced. The ship came to 
a stop, preparing to turn and go with the wind. 
The deck hands took their places by the lifeboats 
and rafts, ready to lower them. 

H. and I looked over the rail and wondered if 
any boat could live in such a sea. In the saloon 
the ladies had gathered, with pale and anxious 
faces. In the smoking-room some young men 
were playing poker. When the fire-bell rang out 
its terrifying sounds, these young men suddenly 
lost all interest in the game ; the " chips " flew 
in all directions. At the other end of the smok- 
ing-room four old veterans were playing whist. 
One of these four had been all through our Civil 
War, and afterwards was in the Chinese army 



158 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 



under Gordon during the great rebellion ; at 
present he is connected with the army of Japan. 
Another of the four was a gray-bearded Swede. 
The other two were English. All through the 
turmoil of the fire alarm these four card players 
never stopped their game or appeared to know 
that anything unusual was going on. Happily, 
it turned out that it was either a false alarm or 
a fire quickly extinguished, we were never quite 
certain which. It is not very alarming to hear 
the fire-bells on land. The Fourth of July bells 
only destroy sleep ; the church-bells are sooth- 
ing; but the dread sound of the fire-bell and 
whistle on shipboard, a thousand miles from 
land, is terrifying. It brings up before one, with 
the vividness of a flashlight, all the salient points 
of his life. 

It is under such circumstances, as one peers 
out into the darkness, into the raging sea, that one 
sees the picture of men and women in life boats, 
starving and hoping, during days of agony. 

Thursday, May i, 1902, at 5 o'clock in the 
morning, all the American passengers gathered 
at the forward end of the steamer to catch the 
first sight of land. Near me were two ladies who 
had been in China as missionaries for fourteen 
years, and a gentleman who had been in business 
in Shanghai nineteen years. What vast changes 
they will see. They cannot now conceive of them. 



PACIFIC OCEAN — HONOLULU 159 

But in a few hours the wonderful panorama will 
begin to be unfolded. There is a chill in the early 
morning air, but no one feels it. Our hearts beat 
high and the blood flows fast in our veins as we 
strain our eyes to catch the long, low line that 
marks the coast of America. Soon the head- 
lands come into view. Then the seal rocks, Sutro 
Park, and the Cliff House. The enthusiasm of 
the Americans knows no bounds. They cheer 
everything in sight again and again. 

We passed through the Golden Gate and came 
to the wharf at San Francisco at 10.30 a. m. It 
took two hours to get our baggage passed by 
the customs officers, by whom we were very well 
treated. We had heard such stories from tourists 
as to what they would do to us, that we had 
dreaded the ordeal, but we were let off much 
easier than we expected. One does not really 
feel that he is again a citizen of the United 
States, and has really been taken back into 
Uncle Sam's family, till he has passed the bar- 
riers of the custom-house. 



CHAPTER X 

THE HOME STRETCH 

At the old familiar " Palace Hotel," we regis- 
ter once again, and here, with regret, we part 
from the friends we have made, and with whom 
we have shared the pleasures and the dangers of 
travel from Port Said to San Francisco, — people 
claiming the most widely separated countries as 
their homes. 

We leave San Francisco May 7, at 10 a. m., on 
the fast express of vestibule Pullman cars, an ob- 
servation car at the rear, a library and smoking 
apartment and barber's shop, and a dining-car. 
In this palace and hotel combined, on wheels, 
we take our seats, and what seem to us like mov- 
ing pictures of paradise speed by. First, the 
great vineyards and orchards in the valley lands, 
then dotting and painting the slopes of the foot- 
hills of the Sierra Nevadas to the very top. 
Then we cross the Rockies, with their immense 
deposits of minerals yet untouched, speed down 
their eastern slopes, across the rich lands of 
Nebraska and Iowa and the Middle States, un- 
surpassed for the products of the soil, and dotted 
all over with prosperous, intelligent, and orderly 



THE HOME STRETCH 161 

communities, their cities throbbing with life and 
industry, their green hills and slopes, their fertile 
meadows, their beautiful valleys, covered with 
countless herds or growing the cereals with 
which to feed the world ; and then into New 
England, the home of manufacturing villages, 
the factory chimney, the mill-pond, the church 
steeple, the schoolhouse, — New England that 
contains within itself samples of every best 
things in the world, one of which is the town of 
Leominster, where I arrived on Friday, May 16, 
1902, at 6 p. m., completing the circuit of the 
globe in seven months less three days. 

The material supremacy of the United States 
over any and every other part of the globe is, and 
must be, conceded by every impartial observer ; 
there is no sort of question about it, — it is to be 
found in its soil, timber, minerals, climate, and 
rainfall. A traveler coming from the far East 
and crossing the United States on the line I 
followed feels that he has struck another world, 
where there is an overflowing abundance of the 
best of everything; where there is no poverty; 
where all are free and independent, and only 
work because they want to, not because they 
have to. One other thins; strikes the observer 
most forcibly, that all seem to be on a level ; 
there are no castes or classes visible. Every one 



162 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 



has the expression on his face that says, as plainly 
as words would say it, " I am just as good as you 
are." The people of France, as I saw them, come 
nearer to us in these traits than the English peo- 
ple. Among the things the home-coming tourist 
anticipates with joyful feelings are the finely 
flavored fruits, the juicy steaks, the real pies 
and puddings, real cream and butter, fragrant 
coffee, — nothing like them anywhere else. The 
names appear on the bills of fare in other lands, 
but they are not the real thing. And the cook- 
ing, especially in New England, beats the world. 
It is safer for a traveler to enter the United 
States from the West and approach New Eng- 
land by degrees, and not plunge at once into its 
sumptuous fare. The United States is a country 
that every one wants to get back into, from the 
consul-general of India to our minister in Japan. 
Young Americans sentenced to places of trust 
and profit in China are all anxiously awaiting 
the end of their terms of banishment to step 
again inside the boundary lines of the United 
States. On every steamer bound for this coun- 
try are found stowaways, down on the keel or 
under the canvas in the lifeboats, risking their 
lives to get into the magic land, where a news- 
boy may be President. 

The Old World suffers from overpopulation. 
There is not enough food raised to support the 



THE HOME STRETCH 163 

people. The children must work as soon as they 
can walk; no food is wasted, no ground un- 
worked that can be made to produce anything. 
The United States is underpopulated, — there 
are more " acres than people." The old coun- 
tries are thousands of years old where the United 
States is hundreds. When the time comes — if 
it ever does come — that the United States is as 
densely populated as Italy or Japan, what will 
be the result? One thing in favor of our country 
is that its energies and industries tend to make 
this country more productive, more capable of 
sustaining population. They are not wasted on 
such marvelous but worthless works as the pyra- 
mids of Egypt, the Coliseum at Rome, or the 
costly temples of India and Japan, — works that 
have not added one iota to the real wealth of the 
world, but only to the vanity or fanaticism of 
men. 



Electrotyped and printed by H. O. Houghton &* Co. 
Cambridge, Mass., U.S. A, 



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